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The OD code continues to display after unplugging. Ran the service test but does not show anything but "OD" no other codes. Is it a sure bet that the control board is bad or would it have to due with the Magnetic closers? I do not wish to just replace board if their is an underlying cause. The board shows no signs of burn components. Read the repair manual but found no reference to this specific issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by: Curiouscleaner  The OD code continues to display after unplugging. Ran the service test but does not show anything but "OD" no other codes. Is it a sure bet that the control board is bad or would it have to due with the Magnetic closers? I do not wish to just replace board if their is an underlying cause. The board shows no signs of burn components. Read the repair manual but found no reference to this specific issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. What I would do is remove the Left Lid Lock and very carefully open it up. See page 34 of the Service Manual for removal steps. Once you have the Left Lid Lock in your hand you need to open up the case halves. I found it is very easy to break off the enclosure locking tabs. I use a fine flat jewelers screw driver and X-acto blade and work around the locking tabs to open the case halves. I wedge small paper clip ends or tooth picks in the case halves as I work around the tabs. Once the case halves are open I believe you will find corrosion issues such as seen in my pic’s.You can clean up the corrosion with WD-40 and finger nail emery boards. I believe you will find the black lead has broken loose from one end of the magnetic reed relay. It can be soldered back on. If you don’t want to deal with that you can order a replacement Left Hand Lid Lock from this site. OD is caused by Loss of 12VDC signaling from the Cotrol Board thru the magnetic reed relay back to Conn_P3 Pin 9 "Lid is Closed" On the Control Board..... Rich dh1200s attached the following image(s):
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Rich
Took apart as per your directions. Very little corrosion & no broken leads. Cleaned the sliding contacts anyway, moved it back and forth dozen times or so, cleaned the outside pins that receive the wiring harness and put it back in machine. Still would not work.
Then took a larger magnet that I have and with lid open placed on top rim and tryed to turn on washer. It came up with no error. Removed my magnet, closed lid and I am now washing my first load.
Question- do the original magnets loose their strength over time, washer is about 5 years old. Maybe I should order a new lid lock just to have in reserve.
Thank you for your guidance. I called and left message for Maytag authorized repair last Friday and still have not even gotten a call from them.
Gene thank you for this resource, I will order my back up switch from you to be safe.
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Curiouscleaner,
Your L.H. Lid lock sounds in great shape from what most owners experience in terms of corrosion. I would not spend the money right now but that’s me. You can get quick turnaround from this site if you need to replace down the road, I just clean them up as you did. I think you saved yourself a nice chunk change with your DIY fix… good job! What series is your machine? The series is the 1st two digits of your serial number. I have a soft copy of schematics for the Series if you need. It’s a little easier for me to navigate around on the .PDF schematic on the laptop when troubleshooting.
Start a spin only cycle with the lid open you should error out with an “OP” error to the display. Now close the lid and error should clear. Try a few times and see if the “OP” error code clears repeatedly.
The left side lid magnet operates the magnetic reed relay you saw in the lid lock. Depending on where in the wash cycle the +12VDC signaling became lost to the Control Board will determine the Control Board error code “OP” or ”OD”.
You can check out the Lid Magnet position under the inner panel of the lid. Follow the SM for inner lid panel removal and make sure the magnet in seated in the holder. Other tip I would never replace the right lid lock if it fails but that’s your call. Only the L.H. Lid Lock is required for the machine to operate as designed with it’s dual signaling function, lid is open/closed and lid is locked/unlocked.
Are you the original owner of the machine? If so have you had a Clutch malfunction (dry/sticky One-Way Roller clutches) resulting with dC/uC unbalance error codes? I have a clutch maintenance/repair process that will help DIY owners of these TL machine models. The L.H. Lid Lock and Clutch malfunctions send many FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines to an early grave. As you did you can make this machine last longer than it’s high MTBF with maintenance for issues such as these.
Post back if I can help with any machine issue. Only thing I haven’t worked on is an Outer Tub bearing replacement. I have a machine that's about ready for that….. Rich
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Yes original owner. This is the first issue with the unit. Still working fine after the cleaning. Serial #last 5 #'s 85148EE. It has now been 7 days and no call from the Maytag repair folks. It's fishing time on the Outer Banks, wish I were there, that must be where they are at. I'm on my way to the beach now so have a good weekend.
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Forget Maytag repair you sound like you can handle any repair on the FAV6800A. Get the Service Manual Gene linked you to from servicematters.com and order any parts you need from this site. Always troubleshoot before ordering parts as you did.
“”The series is the 1st two digits of your serial number”” would just give me some insight to the Clutch assembly in your machine as to whether or not your machine used the Upper One-Way Roller Clutch bearing. I put this out because this is the number one issue with the FAV6800A & FAV9800A machines. If you haven’t had dC/uC unbalance errors caused the One-Way Roller clutches in the clutch pulley in the past you will down the road. I have a write up to remove the clutch and determine if you can clean up and re-lube or need to replace the clutch assembly. A clutch replacement service call will cost you around $300.
A One-Way roller clutch clean up/re-lube would be the cost of a can of WD-40 and Slick 50 One Lube. The first check is to do the TDS thru the lid check that is in the SM.
10-4 on the Outer Banks, we go down every summer, we really enjoy the area.
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I followed this guys steps and also i must add i didn't have a broken black wire. i just simply cleaned the corrosion and i also slightly bent the upper contact for the two sliders that send the signal for door locked. :) thanks a bunch.. Originally Posted by: dh1200s What I would do is remove the Left Lid Lock and very carefully open it up. See page 34 of the Service Manual for removal steps. Once you have the Left Lid Lock in your hand you need to open up the case halves.
I found it is very easy to break off the enclosure locking tabs. I use a fine flat jewelers screw driver and X-acto blade and work around the locking tabs to open the case halves. I wedge small paper clip ends or tooth picks in the case halves as I work around the tabs. Once the case halves are open I believe you will find corrosion issues such as seen in my pic’s.
You can clean up the corrosion with WD-40 and finger nail emery boards.
I believe you will find the black lead has broken loose from one end of the magnetic reed relay. It can be soldered back on. If you don’t want to deal with that you can order a replacement Left Hand Lid Lock from this site. OD is caused by Loss of 12VDC signaling from the Cotrol Board thru the magnetic reed relay back to Conn_P3 Pin 9 "Lid is Closed" On the Control Board..... Rich 
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Glad it worked out for you.....that bleach dispenser is hard on the contacts in that left hand lid lock.........great work..........Dick
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Thank you for the information. I was able to follow the steps and fix the "od" problem. Thanks again.
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