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msshottet  
#1 Posted : Monday, February 18, 2008 2:13:24 PM(UTC)
msshottet

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I have a Kenmore Elite Refridgerator Model number 106.53293201
Made in July 2002. I had a technician come out and check it out because the freezer is working excellent but the fridge part is warm like outside on a cool day. He told me that the damper control board needs to be replaced because the sensor is bad and the freezer will stop working eventually in a month or so. i wanted to know if you sell that part if so what is it called in your store and what is the part number so i can purchase it from you. Do you think that this is somthing that I can have my brother fix he is pretty good with his hands, and he is an air conditioning contractor. If so can you provide step by step instructions on how to fix it. Please get back to me it is urgent
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, February 19, 2008 2:11:04 PM(UTC)
Gene

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The first failure suspect in such situation is the air diffuser (damper control). I would recommend to replace it together with the temperature sensor (thermistor).

- The part number for the air diffuser is AP3084126

- The part number for the thermistor is AP3745265

If your brother is an air conditioning contractor he probably does not need step by step instructions, but if he does - let me know.

Gene.
Mistry  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, June 10, 2008 11:06:34 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
The first failure suspect in such situation is the air diffuser (damper control). I would recommend to replace it together with the temperature sensor (thermistor).

- The part number for the air diffuser is AP3084126

- The part number for the thermistor is AP3745265

If your brother is an air conditioning contractor he probably does not need step by step instructions, but if he does - let me know.

Gene.



Gene,

Kitchen Aid Side-by side Fridge Freezer: Model: KSRS27ILWH03 (Purchased)2003

I have a simmilar problem where the Freezer works OK but Fridge does not get cold.
Looking at the Diffuser during operating mode, I see the baffle is shut. Could you advise me how I can test the Diffuser (Baffle Control Assembley) to see if that is defective.
To test the termisters I expected 5Kohms /70degree Ferenhite. Please confirm if this is correct? I got 2.3KOhms, is this still OK?

Thanks in advance.
Bhupendra
Gene  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, June 10, 2008 5:04:49 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Mistry,

Perform all tests as described in the tech sheets. Post the results.

Here are the break down diagrams for the Kitchen Aid refrigerator Model KSRS27ILWH03

Gene.
Mistry  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, June 11, 2008 12:32:27 PM(UTC)
Mistry

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Gene,
So I think I have narrowed down the problem to the Baffle Assembly or the Main control board, so I focused my tests to following:

1) Tested the Thermisters: Assumed these are OK.
a. At room temperature = 2.6K Ohms
b. With cooling it goes down to 5K Ohms and more
2) Tested the Diffuser (Air Baffle Unit):
a. With Appliance disconnected = Diffuser flaps Open
b. With Appliance connected and Thermisters at room Temperature = Diffuser flaps closes.
c. With Fridge in normal running mode: Between Diffuser Blk and Or/Bk wires = 120VAC and between Blk and Tl/Rd = 98VAC.
d. With Diagnostic test at Step 5 (Air Baffle Motor test): Between Blk and Or/Bk wires = 120VAC and between Blk and Tl/Rd = 98VAC (ie: No change). The instruction mentions Black and White (Do you know where this wire is located?) wire. When I try to lower the temperature of the Freezer Thermister, I see that the Baffle are trying to open, but do not open more then 0.25mm.
3) Diagnostics steps 1 and 2 are fine. Other tests appear to be fine but did not measure the voltage.

Question:
1) Assuming what I have done is correct. How can I further diagnose down to either the Diffuser or Control Card.
2) If it’s the Control card, is there one component that usually goes resulting in such symptoms? Can one replace the component?

Thanks again for your time.

Regards,
Bhupendra
Gene  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, June 11, 2008 2:17:49 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You can learn how the air baffle and the control board work in your fridge from this service manual.

Gene.
Mistry  
#7 Posted : Thursday, June 12, 2008 11:12:16 AM(UTC)
Mistry

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Gene,
Thanks for all the info. that you have posted. Its is making it more clear.
I checked the Refrigirator Thermister value with various temperature and I got the following:
Temp. Ohms Read Ohms per chart
0 12K 22.7K
40 3.5K 7K
60 2.5K 4.1K

Could this be the problem? Also when I measure voltage in Step 5 (Air Baffle Motor test) (between white and Black) of the diagnostics, where can I find the white wire?
Thanks again.
Regards,
Bhupendra
Gene  
#8 Posted : Friday, June 13, 2008 6:58:11 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You have to use the OR/BK wire instead of white when you test the baffle motor.

You do not need to measure the thermistors resistance. Instead just run the self diagnosis test (step 1 & 2). Also if the refrigerator thermistor fails, the control will cycle the baffle open for 10 minutes, closed for 10 minutes.

Most likely the problem is a bad air baffle.

- The part number for the air baffle is AP3084126

Gene.
P.S. I'm afraid you did not read the service manual.
Grisha  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, October 14, 2009 9:09:24 PM(UTC)
Grisha

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I have Kenmore 106.532932201. Seems like the door was not close all night and fridge part stayed warm for all day next day. With hair dryer I tried to defrost the Air Baffle Motor, seemed stuck. Also I had run the Diagnostics from service manual (see the link above) and diagnostic showed that everything is all right. 24 hours after diagnostic fridge works fine.
Gene  
#10 Posted : Friday, October 16, 2009 2:38:12 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Watch it close and keep in touch.

Gene.
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