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No lights, will not turn on, replaced Thermal Fuse Options Email this topic Watch this topic Print this topic » Normal Threaded
Model: KUDK02CRBS4	Brand: Kitchen Aid	Age: 1 - 5 years
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darrylj		#1 Posted : Sunday, January 29, 2017 12:56:16 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 1/29/2017(UTC) Posts: 2		I picked up this dishwasher early this week, model #KUDK02CRBS4 the gentleman said it just seemed to have quit working in between loads. The control panel has no lights etc.. I took the initial first step and replaced the thermal fuse along with the wires, it did not fix it. I started playing with the door latch and was able to get a distinctive click then what sounded like a motor or pump started. I pulled the door latch mechanism out and was able to replicate what I had heard by pressing in the small white piece of plastic on the switch, however it would not do it every time, it was hit and miss. I'm fairly certain the door switch is the issue, but would like a second opinion. I included some pictures below.


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ThatGuy		#2 Posted : Sunday, January 29, 2017 2:04:50 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Expert Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,395 Location: near the middle of nowhere Was thanked: 24 time(s) in 24 post(s)		If the switch's plunger won't click reliably every time and easily return to the "out" position its probably bad. You should be able to test it with a ohm meter. When depressed you should always show a dead short/continuity through the contacts. Any ohm reading larger than 0 to 1 ohm is too much. Besides that switch shows a heavy arc spot where somebody shorted it and melted part of the terminal. I'd say replace it. Just make sure the wires are in good shape and that they fit tightly on the new switch's terminals.


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darrylj		#3 Posted : Sunday, January 29, 2017 2:10:10 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 1/29/2017(UTC) Posts: 2		Originally Posted by: ThatGuy If the switch's plunger won't click reliably every time and easily return to the "out" position its probably bad. You should be able to test it with a ohm meter. When depressed you should always show a dead short/continuity through the contacts. Any ohm reading larger than 0 to 1 ohm is too much. Besides that switch shows a heavy arc spot where somebody shorted it and melted part of the terminal. I'd say replace it. Just make sure the wires are in good shape and that they fit tightly on the new switch's terminals. well the switch does click when you press the plunger everytime


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