Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/27/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
During the start of baking, our oven made a pop! sound and then the bake and broil elements wouldn't heat.
The display elements worked: clock and oven temperature control.
We replaced the oven control board. Again, the display worked: clock and oven temperature controls. Using a voltage detector, we had power to the 15-pin connector to the control board and to all five wires on the side of the control board: 1) bake, 2) broil, 3) L1, 4) L2 Out, 5) L2 In.
But when we tried to operate the bake function, a terminal at the bake element sparked and the control board display stopped working.
We replaced the terminal to the bake element. Using a voltage detector, we tested the wires connected to the control board.
At the control board we have power to the L2 In wire, but no power to the bake wire, broil wire, L1 wire or the L2 Out wire.
We don't have power to the 15-pin connector anymore either.
Neither do we have power to the wires connected to the bake and broil elements.
So now we have the same things getting power - and not getting power - with the replacement control board as we had with the old board. So either they're both broken or they both work and something else is keeping the broil and bake elements from working.
The broil and bake elements tested fine for continuity.
Summary: L2 In wire to the control board has power. Nothing else does.
What do we do now?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Here are your parts Parts for Frigidaire FEB24S5ASB Oven - AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...assomption/318046221.pdfIf you do not have 120 volts from L1 to Neutral then it is a power problem and not a oven problem. OR for some reason you are tripping the breaker but this should also kill the L1 side of the line as electrical code stipulates that those two breakers be tied together. Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. Check the voltage at the plug. This may not apply to your oven as it may be hard wired. L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out. If the unit has one. If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. [COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR] |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/27/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts. Actual measurement: 126.8 volts L1 to neutral should be 120 volts. Actual measurement: 5.4 volts L2 to neutral should be 120 volts. Actual measurement: 122.7 volts I guess that means L1 is messed up somehow. So is this an electrical problem? What kind of electrical problem? What's wrong? So our oven control board is good? We have a fuse box, not a breaker. Pulling the fuses out an reinserting several times had no effect. We have a terminal block, not a terminal strip, but we haven't tested the block yet. What's our next step on the DIY path? If we abandon DIY, which do we need -- an electrician or an appliance repair person? Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts Parts for Frigidaire FEB24S5ASB Oven - AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...assomption/318046221.pdfIf you do not have 120 volts from L1 to Neutral then it is a power problem and not a oven problem. OR for some reason you are tripping the breaker but this should also kill the L1 side of the line as electrical code stipulates that those two breakers be tied together. Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. Check the voltage at the plug. This may not apply to your oven as it may be hard wired. L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out. If the unit has one. If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. [COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
[COLOR="Blue"]I guess that means L1 is messed up somehow. So is this an electrical problem? What kind of electrical problem? What's wrong?[/COLOR]
That would also be my conclusion but finding the bad connection/wir may be a pain.
[COLOR="Blue"]
So our oven control board is good?[/COLOR]
Probably yes
[COLOR="Blue"]
We have a fuse box, not a breaker. Pulling the fuses out an reinserting several times had no effect.[/COLOR]
Did you remove the fuses and check them with a meter to be sure they are OK
[COLOR="Blue"]What's our next step on the DIY path?[/COLOR]
Start at the fuse box and work your way to the unit till you find the fault.
[COLOR="Blue"]If we abandon DIY, which do we need -- an electrician or an appliance repair person?[/COLOR]
I would say an electrician. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/7/2015(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
This is Suetom12 (had to re-register for some reason.) Thanks. Turns out we had both a bad fuse AND a bad control board. Replaced both, oven works fine, saved $85 repair person visit. We owe you.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
