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kennethgore  
#1 Posted : Monday, December 2, 2013 7:09:15 AM(UTC)
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kennethgore

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Our Roper dryer (model RED4440VQ1) has recently stopped heating on all selections on the timer control and the timer does not advance on any selection. The dryer simply spins continuously until I turn the timer knob to the off position. We clean the lint screen after every use and I have checked the vent tube for kinking and it is free of kinks. No breakers are tripped. What may be the culprit with our dryer?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, December 3, 2013 12:19:35 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

The timer not advancing it auto and timed dry cycles may point to a power problem.
As you can see the motor runs off of half the line (Neutral to L1) (120 volts).
But the heater and the timer motor run off the full line voltage (L1 to L2) (240 volts).

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]
File Attachment(s):
RED4440.pdf (550kb) downloaded 7 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kennethgore  
#3 Posted : Monday, December 9, 2013 6:16:22 PM(UTC)
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kennethgore

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I checked the volts coming from the breaker and I am getting roughly 118 and 119 from the dual pole breaker so I take it that would mean that I'm getting 240 volts to the dryer. I switched the breaker on and off slowly multiple times. I also checked for continuity on the heating element, cycling thermostat, dryer thermal fuse, and the dryer thermal cutoff and I am getting continuity on all componenets. The power cord and contacts all look good, solid and not frayed or burned. I also looked at the wires going to the timer and they look good as well. I have not put the meter on the timer because I wasn't sure if the timer would have anything to do with it. I have checked the exhaust hose and tube running through the house and all is clear of obstruction. I am lost and my wife is not happy with not being able to dry clothes. Anymore suggestions or anything else I can look for? I greatly appreciate it and I thank you in advance.
denman  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, December 10, 2013 1:17:44 AM(UTC)
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denman

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I am assuming that you checked the power at the terminal strip in the unit.
This is important because the problem can be a bad wall receptacle or a bad power cord.

So lets track down the no heat problem as I think this the easiest.
Set the timer to mid-cycle timed dry.
Unplug the unit.
Attach (tape or clip) on meter lead to the L1 prong of the power cord and leave it there.
Set your meter to it's most sensitive resistance scale. Short the meter leads together before starting to see if the meter has a zero offset.

Now measure L1 connection at the terminal strip, should be 0 ohms.
Then C timer contact, should be 0 ohms.
then B timer contact, should be 0 ohms.
Then A timer contact should be 0 ohms.
Then both sides of the thermal cutoff, should be 0 ohms.
Then both sides of the operating thermostat, should be 0 ohms.
Then both sides of the hi-limit thermostat.
Then the heater coil. One side should be 0 ohms. The other side should be 8 to 12 ohms (heater resistance).
OK so that is almost all the heater circuit checked.

If all OK, remove the meter lead from the power cord and measure form the side of the heater that had resistance to the centrifugal switch on the motor. One side should be open and one side should be infinite resistance.
If OK, measure from the infinite resistance side of the centrifugal switch to the L2 prong on the power cord, should be 0 ohms.

If all the above is OK then there is a problem with the centrifugal switch on the motor.
Could be the switch is blown.
Could be that the mechanism that activates the switch is broken or that it is so dirty that it is not working.
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kennethgore  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:15:25 AM(UTC)
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kennethgore

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Actually I only checked the voltage coming from the breaker itself. I did not check the voltage at the terminal on the dryer nor the voltage coming from the wall receptacle. I honestly did not even think to check the voltage at these areas but I will. Still kind of new to whole home DIY. I am currently out of town for work and will be back home on friday night so as soon as I get in will get right back to troubleshooting. In the meantime, is there anything else I should be on the lookout for or anything I should be telling my wife to look for? I'm going to have her look at the power cord very carefully for any brown marks indicating shorts in the cord....it is currently unplugged for safety precaution. As always we appreciate the help.
denman  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:52:25 AM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]In the meantime, is there anything else I should be on the lookout for or anything I should be telling my wife to look for?[/COLOR]
Nothing I can think of.
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