Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/19/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
On my Whirlpool model GD25BFCHB00 side by side refrigerator both the water dispenser and ice dispenser stopped working simultaneously. The ice maker itself is working and produces ice. The freezer door switch is working. The dispenser lock is unlocked. The wiring at the bottom of the door looks fine. Given all this, I suspect that the switch (part# AP3086666) that is attached to the dispenser face plate is the problem. It seems unlikely that both micro switches have failed. Is this an accurate conclusion? Is there a way to verify?
I have removed the dispenser face plate from the freezer door but have not been able to remove the switch from the dispenser face plate. My unit has decorative wood panels so the dispenser face plate is larger than the standard face plate. It does not have a standard overlay that is removable from the face plate. The switch does move around within the plastic bracket enclosure but I see no way to remove it. I fear that the bracket holding the switch has been glued to the face plate and that I'm out of luck. I can upload pics if that would help. Any ideas? Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
|
Hi. It sounds like the bracket is broken and no longer holding the micro switches in the right position. Part number: AP2988571
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/19/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
|
Hi.
You can run the continuity test to check the switch.
For the lock continuity between BU/BK and GY.
For the ice GY - BU.
For the water GY - PU.
Post the results.
Simon.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/19/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
I don't see a PU terminal on the switch. Also there are 2 BU/BK terminals - which one?
Top row (left to right) TL/BK BU/BK WH/RD
Bottom row (left to right) BU/BK GY BU
See attached image.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/19/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
Here is the attachment showing the terminals on the back side of the switch.  tr8d31 attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
|
Hi.
The fastest way to determine the problem would be checking the door interlock switch.
You should have continuity between BK and BU/BK with door closed.
Next, check if there is 120VAC at the door switch BU/BK and check continuity of this wire to the push botton switch.
If you have continuity and correct voltage going to the selector switch - replace it.
Simon.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/19/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
The problem turned out to be broken wires in the wire bundle underneath the freezer door. I did not examine them as closely as I had initially thought. Once you see how this wire bundle flexes every time the freezer door is opened you can see that the wires are guaranteed to eventually break. A very poor design in my opinion. Thanks for the help.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
|
I'm glad you found the problem.
Good job.
Simon.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
