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Here is the tech sheet that comes up for this unit. Just to be sure we are both looking at the same thing.
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...ebster/134509400efsa.pdf

If the tech sheety I have is correct then this unit does not have a thermal fuse in the heater circuit. The fuse you mention will kill power to the motor.
I think they may be referring to the fuses Or a circuit breaker in the house electrical panel so I would check the power to the unit first.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
The heating element requires the full 240 volts while the motor and control board runs off of half the line (120 volts).
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

If power is OK check the high limit thermostat (Item 33 in Section 1).
It should be 0 ohms.

If OK check the heating element
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case.

IF OK check the thermistor, should be around 50,000 ohms at room temperature.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.