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Thermostat problem?
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Model: GTS22KBMARWW Brand: GE Age: 1 - 5 years
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Troubleshooter  
#1 Posted : Thursday, February 26, 2009 11:23:21 AM(UTC)
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Troubleshooter

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About 6 weeks ago, my fridge stopped getting cold (freezer working fine, though). I checked the coils, which were completely iced over, and defrosted them with a hair dryer. On the advice of someone who knows a bit about appliance repair, I REPLACED the MAIN BOARD and the DEFROST HEATER.

Everything worked great until a few days ago, when the same problem occurred -- the fridge was no longer cooling, but the freezer worked fine. I checked the coils, which were iced over again. This time I used a hair dryer and hot water to de-ice them.

I put everything back together in the early morning and all seemed well until evening, when the fridge temp started rising again (I had hung a thermometer inside); THIS TIME, however, EVEN THE FREEZER HAD STOPPED WORKING! I could feel warmth coming from the back panel (no “hot smell” or overheating, just a “warm-glow” warmth when I touched the back panel).

After unplugging the fridge and removing the back panel, I checked the defrost heater, and it was slightly warm, so I'm assuming that's where the warmth came from.
A couple of questions:


1) Is it possible the main board has gone out (again), since the FAN and COMPRESSOR are NOT RUNNING when the fridge is plugged in? Could something have caused it to short?


2) I read that if it's not the defrost heater, it's probably the TIMER or the THERMOSTAT. (I don't think my model has a timer.) Could a FAULTY THERMOSTAT CAUSE THE NEW MAIN BOARD TO SHORT OUT?


3) If it's the THERMOSTAT, then I'd like some ADVICE ON HOW TO CHANGE IT. I located the thermostat, which has two wires, one pink and one orange. The pink wire is attached to a white, plastic "slip," which fits into a hole connected to the defrost heater. The orange wire leads into a hard, black plastic "wrapping," then continues on to a round, blue casing attached to the back of the fridge. My question is, COULD THE THERMOSTAT BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM, and, if so, HOW DO I REMOVE THE ORANGE WIRE? Does it disconnect at the point of the black, plastic wrapping or at the back of the fridge, where it goes into the round blue casing?

Thanks for any advice you may have.
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richappy  
#2 Posted : Friday, February 27, 2009 1:15:58 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Pull the back panel, temporarily jam the condensing fan blade, and check the compressor. Is it just humming or running and is it very hot.
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kayakcrzy  
#3 Posted : Friday, February 27, 2009 4:47:22 AM(UTC)
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kayakcrzy

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Originally Posted by: Troubleshooter Go to Quoted Post
About 6 weeks ago, my fridge stopped getting cold (freezer working fine, though). I checked the coils, which were completely iced over, and defrosted them with a hair dryer. On the advice of someone who knows a bit about appliance repair, I REPLACED the MAIN BOARD and the DEFROST HEATER.

Everything worked great until a few days ago, when the same problem occurred -- the fridge was no longer cooling, but the freezer worked fine. I checked the coils, which were iced over again. This time I used a hair dryer and hot water to de-ice them.

I put everything back together in the early morning and all seemed well until evening, when the fridge temp started rising again (I had hung a thermometer inside); THIS TIME, however, EVEN THE FREEZER HAD STOPPED WORKING! I could feel warmth coming from the back panel (no “hot smell” or overheating, just a “warm-glow” warmth when I touched the back panel).

After unplugging the fridge and removing the back panel, I checked the defrost heater, and it was slightly warm, so I'm assuming that's where the warmth came from.
A couple of questions:


1) Is it possible the main board has gone out (again), since the FAN and COMPRESSOR are NOT RUNNING when the fridge is plugged in? Could something have caused it to short?


2) I read that if it's not the defrost heater, it's probably the TIMER or the THERMOSTAT. (I don't think my model has a timer.) Could a FAULTY THERMOSTAT CAUSE THE NEW MAIN BOARD TO SHORT OUT?


3) If it's the THERMOSTAT, then I'd like some ADVICE ON HOW TO CHANGE IT. I located the thermostat, which has two wires, one pink and one orange. The pink wire is attached to a white, plastic "slip," which fits into a hole connected to the defrost heater. The orange wire leads into a hard, black plastic "wrapping," then continues on to a round, blue casing attached to the back of the fridge. My question is, COULD THE THERMOSTAT BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM, and, if so, HOW DO I REMOVE THE ORANGE WIRE? Does it disconnect at the point of the black, plastic wrapping or at the back of the fridge, where it goes into the round blue casing?

Thanks for any advice you may have.


You could very well have a bad board, since the compressor and the fan is not running. Lay your hand on the top of the compressor, and see if the compressor is hot, if so, the fan motor could be bad. If the compressor is running and the motor is not, then that would mean the condensor motor is bad. Or, the overload and relay combination mounted on the compressor is bad. If the compressor is cold as a cucumber, I would get another board. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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denman  
#4 Posted : Friday, February 27, 2009 5:31:45 AM(UTC)
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1) Is it possible the main board has gone out (again), since the FAN and COMPRESSOR are NOT RUNNING when the fridge is plugged in? Could something have caused it to short?
It is possible but it is also possible that you opened it up when it was in a defrost cycle.


2) I read that if it's not the defrost heater, it's probably the TIMER or the THERMOSTAT. (I don't think my model has a timer.) Could a FAULTY THERMOSTAT CAUSE THE NEW MAIN BOARD TO SHORT OUT?
You defrost does not have a mechanical timer
The defrost thermostat could not take out the board unless it shorted to ground

3) If it's the THERMOSTAT, then I'd like some ADVICE ON HOW TO CHANGE IT. I located the thermostat, which has two wires, one pink and one orange. The pink wire is attached to a white, plastic "slip," which fits into a hole connected to the defrost heater. The orange wire leads into a hard, black plastic "wrapping," then continues on to a round, blue casing attached to the back of the fridge. My question is, COULD THE THERMOSTAT BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM, and, if so, HOW DO I REMOVE THE ORANGE WIRE? Does it disconnect at the point of the black, plastic wrapping or at the back of the fridge, where it goes into the round blue casing?
This would be what I would change. It may have gone intermittent on you so it is not opening and closing when it should. This would explain an coil ice up one time and then too much defrost heat another time.

Not sure about the install but I would just snip the existing wires and use wirenuts to install the new one. Many techs recommend filling the open end of the wirenut with silicon sealant once the connection is made. I would also position/tie down them so that the open end faces down so water will not get into the open end.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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Troubleshooter  
#5 Posted : Friday, February 27, 2009 8:24:06 PM(UTC)
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Richappy, Kayakcrzy, and Denman:

Thanks so much for your advice. How I wish I had your knowledge and expertise!

I chickened out and called a repairman yesterday afternoon. :o
The technician changed the thermostat just as you suggested, Denman, by splicing the wires together; he also used a couple of gauges to check out the system, then put a small amount of freon in and replaced the main board. Everything's running okay, but now I'm wondering about something called a "thermistor." Someone told me that this little part might be the real culprit. Do any one of you know what a thermistor is, where it's located, and if it's something to be concerned about? I'm thinking there may be a third episode in the offing if we haven't truly found the problem.

Thanks again for your advice. I'm very grateful to each and every one of you.
Grace
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Troubleshooter  
#6 Posted : Sunday, March 1, 2009 11:31:30 AM(UTC)
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Troubleshooter

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Same song, second verse. Everything was working fine until this afternoon. MAIN BOARD, DEFROST HEATER, AND DEFROST THERMOSTAT have all been replaced.

The freezer has condensation; fan is not running. So far as I can tell, the unit is not working. Do you still think it could be the thermistor? I can't get a part until tomorrow. Is it possible the main board has shorted -- again?

Is it time to buy another fridge?:confused:
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kayakcrzy  
#7 Posted : Sunday, March 1, 2009 12:15:04 PM(UTC)
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What fan are you talking about the one in the freezer or the one next to the compressor? Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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richappy  
#8 Posted : Monday, March 2, 2009 12:38:24 AM(UTC)
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It seems like your freezer thermister may be bad. You can test this right from the motherboard by checking the schematic lacated behind the front panel. If none, you can go to the "sticky" GE refrigerators and my article "The South Jersey " schematic to get the pin #s.
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kayakcrzy  
#9 Posted : Monday, March 2, 2009 4:00:42 AM(UTC)
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kayakcrzy

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How can I put my articles on "Sticky? I have written quite a few articles for a magazine in 4 state area, which is Arkansas, Missouri, Kansas, and Oklahoma. After thirty years in the Service business, I am sure that my information to the customer would be very valuable. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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Troubleshooter  
#10 Posted : Monday, March 2, 2009 7:39:23 AM(UTC)
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The fridge came back on, but I think I'd better change the thermistor ASAP.
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