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flmeade  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, September 14, 2010 8:38:15 AM(UTC)
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flmeade

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Checked all sensors, fuse and heating elements for continuity and they are fine. Are other other sensors or fuses inside the motor or drum housing I should look for?

Replaced heating element last year.
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badbackguy  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, September 14, 2010 11:25:18 AM(UTC)
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badbackguy

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None. The element could have continuity and still be bad. You should have a reading of 9-13 ohms on most, this would be the likely problem.
Joe / APP Team  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, September 14, 2010 11:52:07 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: flmeade Go to Quoted Post
Checked all sensors, fuse and heating elements for continuity and they are fine. Are other other sensors or fuses inside the motor or drum housing I should look for?

Replaced heating element last year.


Based on your information,

NO, there's nothing else to check except :

220 Volts AC at the terminal block.

220 Volts across the heater element terminals.

The timer heat circuit.
(with the wires off and the timer set in a timed dry regular heat setting, you should be able to read a closed circuit across the Black and Red terminals on the timer.)

Or a burnt , broken wire in the harness.

*** Be CAREFUL on the VOLTAGE tests, Don't hurt yourself. ***

Good Luck,

:cool: :cool: :cool:
denman  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, September 14, 2010 4:45:09 PM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEN2000JQ0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208299793.pdf

The hi-limit and the heater's thermal fuse are mounted on/close to the heater assembly.
The operating thermostat is mounted on the blower housing.

The thermal fuse on the blower housing is for the motor.

When checking the components did you unhook one side of them. This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose halt the line voltage without actually tripping the breaker.
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flmeade  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, September 14, 2010 5:11:44 PM(UTC)
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flmeade

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Yes I disconnected all wires before I tested for continuity. Are there any heat sensors in the blower fan assembly I need take apart to check? Is it possible the heat control on the front panel went bad. I tried setting it to a lower heat setting with no results.
denman  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:51:39 AM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="Blue"] Are there any heat sensors in the blower fan assembly I need take apart to check?[/COLOR]
Yes the operating thermostat is mounted on the outside of the blower (Item 8 in Section 3)

[COLOR="Blue"]Is it possible the heat control on the front panel went bad. I tried setting it to a lower heat setting with no results.[/COLOR]
Unlikely as all it controls is an heater built into the operating thermostat.
If it was an open you would be on high heat all the time.

Have you reset/checked the power to the unit?
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flmeade  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, September 15, 2010 3:41:49 AM(UTC)
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flmeade

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How do I reset power to the unit? Do you mean the 220 volt plug?
denman  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, September 15, 2010 3:47:12 AM(UTC)
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Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose halt the line voltage without actually tripping the breaker.

If that does nothing either check the power with a meter or get someone in to do it.

If you have an old house that uses fuses in the electrical box check that both fuses are OK.
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flmeade  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, September 15, 2010 4:34:39 AM(UTC)
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flmeade

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Okay I'll try that and check the voltage at the plug. The dryer runs but just no heat. Are there any sensors in the motor housing that would require me to take it out and remove the fan to check?
denman  
#10 Posted : Wednesday, September 15, 2010 5:04:19 AM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]Are there any sensors in the motor housing that would require me to take it out and remove the fan to check?[/COLOR]
No
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