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csquared24  
#1 Posted : Monday, July 26, 2010 11:02:47 AM(UTC)
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csquared24

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I have a Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator (M/N ED5THAXMS10) that's ~6 years old. The ice maker stopped producing ice several months ago. I routinely replace the water filter & am not experiencing flow issues from the water dispenser. I removed the panel from the ice making compartment and confirmed there is no ice being produced and no ice jammed in the ice-mold or ejector teeth. I confirmed the on/off switch within the freezer compartment is on, and also the infrared detector is going on/off so I assume it's working. So I was thinking the solenoid valve to the ice maker's supply line wasn't operating and I could switch it with the water dispenser's solenoid valve to test the theory. However, the electrical connectors are sized differently to prevent one from doing this. I wanted to get any feedback I could from those with more experience before I purchase the inlet water valve kit. Anything else I should test? Any part that's known to fail prematurely on this model?

Thanks in advance,
Colin
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Monday, July 26, 2010 2:17:03 PM(UTC)
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... the infrared detector is going on/off...


Colin,

Can you explain it more specifically?


Have you checked the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage?

Gene.
csquared24  
#3 Posted : Monday, July 26, 2010 7:39:19 PM(UTC)
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when i open the freezer door, the light next to the on/off switch blinks twice and then repeats the cycle. If I then depress the flap on the other (which would be depressed by the ice bin if the door were closed) then light stays on continuously.
richappy  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, July 27, 2010 1:06:44 AM(UTC)
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Slide the icemaker out, remove the cover, and measure the voltage between pins N and L, should be 115 volts with the flapper pushed closed. If ok, put a jumper between pins T and H. Before you do this, have someone listen to the water solenoid. Icemaker should move the ejector arms to the 11 o'clock position and then let water in. If no water, you have either a bad water solenoid, or a frozen ice shute in the freezer. If the water solenoid hums at this time, it would confirm a frozen line.
csquared24  
#5 Posted : Sunday, August 8, 2010 9:23:16 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
Slide the icemaker out, remove the cover, and measure the voltage between pins N and L, should be 115 volts with the flapper pushed closed. If ok, put a jumper between pins T and H. Before you do this, have someone listen to the water solenoid. Icemaker should move the ejector arms to the 11 o'clock position and then let water in. If no water, you have either a bad water solenoid, or a frozen ice shute in the freezer. If the water solenoid hums at this time, it would confirm a frozen line.

I had to purchase a multimeter, so took a little while to test. I tested between pins N and L, and got a reading of 1.22 V DC. The reading didn't vary if the flapper was open or closed. Is the jumper something I'd need to buy?
richappy  
#6 Posted : Sunday, August 8, 2010 12:30:24 PM(UTC)
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You should set the meter to read AC, not DC. Measure the voltage at the black and white pins of the icemaker connector, should be 115 VAC If no voltage ther with the flapper closed, you probably have bad optics.
csquared24  
#7 Posted : Sunday, August 8, 2010 1:25:43 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
You should set the meter to read AC, not DC. Measure the voltage at the black and white pins of the icemaker connector, should be 115 VAC If no voltage ther with the flapper closed, you probably have bad optics.

the multimeter I bought didn't have an option to switch b/w them, and auto-detects/displays AC or DC. It showed 120 VAC on the house outlet, but was picking it up as DC when I tested the icemaker. I borrowed another meter that could be switched b/w them, and it tested 106 VAC at the black and white pins. It didn't matter if the flap was open or closed, 106 VAC in both cases.
richappy  
#8 Posted : Sunday, August 8, 2010 4:27:54 PM(UTC)
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You are not getting a solid 115 volts to the icemaker, probably bad optics. Check the black/white to white wire voltage to the receiver connector on the right side, if 115 volts, that confirms bad optics.
csquared24  
#9 Posted : Monday, August 9, 2010 7:05:51 PM(UTC)
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i removed the receiver and tried to test the voltage at the adapter/connector. the holes were pretty small, so wasn't certain I was making contact with the leads, but never measured any voltage. on a side note, the icemaker fill the mold with water and made ice for the first time, however, i checked several hours later and found the ejector teeth frozen into the cubes. i was pretty certain i had seen the ejector teeth in relatively vertical position while they were in the freezing process, so I removed the unit and got the cubes melted and tried it again. i checked a couple times quickly and confirmed the ejector teeth were up while the ice was forming, but found them frozen in the cubes several hours later.
richappy  
#10 Posted : Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:09:20 AM(UTC)
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Seems like a bad icemaker, common for these to fail.
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