Yep, it's not looking good for the control board, wish I had a schematic. You could still try the motor if you want, you don't have to cut any wires except the ones in your washer. The wire harness comes with a plug for the new motor and the relay already connected. The wires are already stripped, you could just connect them to your existing wires using wirenuts temporarily instead of using the supplied crimp connectors. Double check with customer service to make sure you can return the motor. You wouldn't even have to install it, just lay it on the floor, connect up with wirenuts and try it. If it doesn't start right away, turn it off immediately so as not to damage the motor. You'll just need one female quick disconnect terminal to connect your existing yellow wire to the supplied capacitor.

Same here on the tinkering. Iv'e been an electronic service technician for 37 years. I love fixing things and enjoy helping others do the same.

I have an 11 year old GE top load myself similar to yours but it has button controls vice knobs. I installed one of the new motors in mine last year after repairing the motor switch on the old one a while back. I have also replaced the transmission and tub seal. My machine is clean, has no rust and works just fine. I refuse to buy one of the new high failure rate pieces of junk that use no water that they are selling these days.

Eric

Ok, big voltage drop in neutral through motor. Now you see what I mean by resistance readings can be misleading. Motor is no good and there is no exact replacement for it. GE has a new type motor to replace that one. The new one doesn't have an integral switch and it has a totally different connector. The new motor comes with new cable harness that you splice into existing wire harness, a pre-wired relay, capacitor, crimp connectors and instructions. I would leave the motor out, cut the wht/red wire and yel wire from motor connector, splice them together, put washer back into TP6 and check voltages again across 6 pin control board connector. Check yel to blu and yel to vio/wht. If you have 120vac across each, the board is probably ok but can't say for sure because you don't have a normal load on it from a good motor. Power to the motor is done via relays on the control board. Sorry about the confusion between red/blk red/wht. My bad, I have the wiring diagram as well.

Eric

Was that "Red/W =>White/R on the 11 pin connector: 123v", while you were in TP5, 6, or 8?

Obviously, you are experiencing a large voltage drop at the motor. This could be on the control board, wiring connections, or a bad wire. The way to find out where is to do the following, with all connectors in place:

First, check voltage at wall socket with washer in TP6. Assume you have a duplex socket there.

Place one probe of your meter to neutral of the wall socket (wide blade) and note the reading with the other probe at the following points while in TP6. You can use an extension cord and place the receptacle end of it near where your going to make the measurements to make it easier.

1. red/blk wire of the 6 pin control board connector
2. blu wire of same connector
3. vio/wht wire of same connector
4. red/blk wire of the pump
5. blu wire at the motor
6. vio/wht wire at the motor.

Now place one probe at hot side of wall socket. Be careful, DO NOT touch the other meter probe tip, it will have full 120vac on it until you touch it to the neutral test points we are going to check. Note the reading at the following points while in TP6.

1. wht/red of motor
2. yel of motor
3. yel at 6 pin control board connector
4. wht/red at 11 pin control board connector

As you've probably figured out, this will narrow down where the voltage drop is occuring.

Just for the heck of it, with the motor connected with your test cable. Plug it in and spin the pulley by hand to see if it will start. Normally, if the main winding is ok but start winding circuit is bad, you can start it by hand.

Eric

You should do the checks with the motor connected. I don't have a schematic for the control board so I don't know if the two neutral feeds to the two control board connectors are connected within the board circuitry. If they are not, with the motor disconnected, you won't have a neutral at the 6-pin board connector (yellow wire). When you measured 123vac between red/blk and gnd, where were you picking up the ground? What about between red/blk and yellow (with motor connected)?

Yes, I would bench test the motor. Size .187 female quick disconnect terminals will fit the motor connector pins nicely. Yes, your correct on the connections.

The "T" model refers to the transmission. The newer hydrowave models do not have a transmission.

Eric

To clear the error code, while in error check mode, press the start button. This will clear all codes. The lid close routine is for the GE hydrowave models that use a motor/inverter. Yours is the older T model design.

You really shouldn't be reading any resistance across the thermal overload. It should be zero ohms (0.00) Check your meter. When set to read ohms, touch the meter leads together, does it read 0.00? If so, you should read the same across the overload. Make sure the terminals on the motor jack are clean so your meter probes are making good connection. The fact that the motor cable plug is scorched at the neutral wire terminal and your getting this 0.4 ohms across the overload is suspicious.

Rather than using ground for reference when making voltage measurements, use neutral. Put it in agitate or spin and check for 120vac across the wht/red and blu wires as well as across the vio/wht and red wires. If your still getting nothing, open the control panel and with the washer off, check for 120vac across the yellow and red/wht wires of the 6 pin plug.

Eric