I read on line that a direct connection could be made to that solenoid with a 110 volt plug to a receptical and you should be able to hear it shift. When I did this there was a spark at the solenoid spade and after that there was no continuity. So I guess maybe it wasn't burn't out till then but didn't work anyway. When I put the second solenoid valve on it worked a few times then stopped. I disconnected the spade connectors from both solenoids and switched them. When the door water switch was made on the icemaker solenoid, it had a small spark in it and after that there was no continuity in it. So I'm not sure where the problem is other than I'm afraid to put the second new valve on.

No water to icemaker. I have replaced the water valve with a new one. This has failed shortly after installing (no continuity now in solenoid). It worked for a few cycles but then quit. I now have another new valve but I am concerned about putting it in with the old icemaker. All the mechanical parts of the icemaker appear to be ok. Do I need to get the entire new icemaker or just the control assembly? Could this part be causing the valve to short out or is there another part I am overlooking. Thanks.