Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Post a reply
From:
Message:

Maximum number of characters in each post is: 32767
Bold Italic Underline   Highlight Quote Choose Language for Syntax Highlighting Insert Image Create Link   Unordered List Ordered List   Left Justify Center Justify Right Justify   Outdent Indent   More BBCode Tags
Font Color Font Size
Security Image:
Enter The Letters From The Security Image:
  Preview Post Cancel

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Gene Posted: Wednesday, January 9, 2008 4:47:18 PM(UTC)
 
Hi Bill,

The normal range is between 3.2 to 3.6 Amps

Gene.
tomkovic Posted: Wednesday, January 9, 2008 4:13:01 PM(UTC)
 
Thank you Gene,

I have since done some Internet research and found the same information about the series wiring to the control valve. That's a pretty elegant solution.

I have an ammeter. What is the acceptable amperage to the control valve from the igniter?

I will get an igniter and install it in any case. It would just be nice to know the amperage for future problems should they arrise.

Thanks

Bill
Gene Posted: Wednesday, January 9, 2008 3:53:38 PM(UTC)
 
Most likely the problem is a bad igniter.

You can learn how the oven igniter works from one of my previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros...as-oven-not-burning.html

- The part number for the oven igniter is AP2020569

Good luck.
Gene.
tomkovic Posted: Wednesday, January 9, 2008 3:22:26 PM(UTC)
 
More info -

I took the bottom of the oven lining off and turned on the oven again and watched and this time waited it out. After about 5 minutes the burner came on, strong at first but then died down to a wimpy little flame.

I turned on the broiler at the top of the oven to compare. There, the igniter seemed to glow more intensely and got that way more quickly. The broiler burner came on in about 20 -30 seconds.

OK, that rules out thermostat I think since the bottom burner did come on, just took awhile. Again, if this were a pilot light and thermocouple setup I would suspect that. There would seem to be 3 possibilities:

1, Igniter is working but the information that it is hot enough is not getting to the control valve - How exactly does that happen now? The thermocouple just used to transmit the heat of the pilot light itself to the valve. Does the igniter transmit some kind of signal to open the control valve? There does not appear to be any sensor or anything around it to do that. The only wiring asociated with it are the ones that power the igniter itself.

2. The igniter is not getting hot enough. Again, how does the control valve "know" this?

3. The control valve is slacking on the job. The same unit controls the broiler (although with a different outlet) and it works fine so I think not .

I can get a new igniter and try but I hate to waste money if that is not the cause.
tomkovic Posted: Wednesday, January 9, 2008 12:38:37 PM(UTC)
 
My mom's oven has been behaving eratically, sometimes not coming up to temp and now it will not light up. There is a slight smell of gas.

When I turn the oven on and look below I see a bright orange/yellow glow from the ignitor but the burner does not light.

I do not smell the gas, my wife does. It seems that maybe the gas control valve is not opening all the way. On older equip I would suspect the thermocouple but there does not seem to be such a thing anymore. Since the ignitor seems to work what seems likely at fault? If the thermostat is shot it could be cutting the gas off, no? If the control valve is bad it could be the problem.

What is a good systematic troubleshooting procedure I can use to isolate the issue?

Thanks