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Gentlemen,
Thank you for all your help, I hired a repairman, and he discovered the timer was the problem. He removed the timer, and it rattled. After installing a new timer the dryer works fine.
Whirlpool chose not to include a wiring diagram in, or on the back of the dryer. The repairman was dismayed Whirlpool failed to do this, but with a little luck he was able to repair the dryer.
I would like to thank you for all your help, normally we could have solved the problem. Thanks to you for your help, I have learned a lot, and if the problem is a simple one. I am sure thanks to you I will be able to solve it.
Yours,
c33341
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Could anyone tell me if it is possible to check the Relay on this dryer. It has three prongs on the back. This is on the part AP 2974634. I checked the two prongs that are side by side and got a reading of 1804 with a digital Ohm meter. This is greek to me.
Thank you for your help.
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I am not able to check the voltage on the motor that is byond my field of expertise.
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There is zero noise when I push the start button. The timer does work when the dryer is plugged in. The motor does not hum or anything.
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Originally Posted by: c33341  I have checked the door switch, and it is good.
I have checked the Thermostat Internal-bias Part no. AP 3045874 and it is good.
I checked the T-Stat, High limit Part AP 3084674 and it has a digital ohm reading of 0.2, and I do not know if this good or bad.
I checked the Thermal cut off Part AP 3176214 and it has a digital reading of 0.3 and I do not know if it is good or bad.
The Thermal Fuse, Thermostat Internal-bias, and the door switch was checked at a local Parts store with an analog meter. These three check good.
I double checked the Thermal Fuse by taping the two wires together to see if the dryer would start, it did not start.
I checked the Relay Part AP 2974634 and the digital reading is 1804. I do not know if this is good or bad.
I am familiar with an Analog Meter, and not with a Digital Meter.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. check if the motor has 120v when, door is closed and push to start . if you read 120v ,it is the overlooad inside the motor ,cant be repaired if no ,on the motor too, check voltage between l1 and ground, by the way tell me if you hear any sound when you push to start,(if the timer motor is runing,or the motor humming)
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I am sorry I sould have said I checked the wall plug when I started. I plugged a blender into the wall & it ran.
I do not have a block at the back of the dryer, the cord has a large black tape, and a bunch of small wires emit from it.
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Boefore you go any further you need to back up a bit and check for the
source voltage at the outlet and at the terminal bock where the cord
connects to the back of the dryer with an AC voltmeter.
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I have checked the door switch, and it is good.
I have checked the Thermostat Internal-bias Part no. AP 3045874 and it is good.
I checked the T-Stat, High limit Part AP 3084674 and it has a digital ohm reading of 0.2, and I do not know if this good or bad.
I checked the Thermal cut off Part AP 3176214 and it has a digital reading of 0.3 and I do not know if it is good or bad.
The Thermal Fuse, Thermostat Internal-bias, and the door switch was checked at a local Parts store with an analog meter. These three check good.
I double checked the Thermal Fuse by taping the two wires together to see if the dryer would start, it did not start.
I checked the Relay Part AP 2974634 and the digital reading is 1804. I do not know if this is good or bad.
I am familiar with an Analog Meter, and not with a Digital Meter.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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The continuity of the door switch is good, and so is the cycling thermostat. The only thing I have left is the start relay, and the thermostat on the burner. I will check them next.
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Jeff I held my wife up to go to dinner & checked the door switch, the plastic is intact. I will check the continuity in the door switch when I return.
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