|
|
Originally Posted by: Dblboinger  Joe...did you mean 9-10k ohms? That is what my sensor measures and I can se the value change if you submerge it in warm (reading decreases) or cold water (reading increases). Dblboinger, You're correct, I guess I forgot to add the K ohms to the previous post. Your resistance readings in general are correct, the resistance should increase as the water temperature is cool, and decrease as the water temperature increases. Now you need to do the same test at the wire harness connector at the TH2 terminal on the CCU. (You may need to insert a metal paper clip, large needle or pin into the connector to test the readings at the harness connector. If you get the same results, this will tell you the sensor and wire harness are operating properly, and you will need the CCU W10525356 Part number: AP5781703
|
|
|
It also appears that the CCU has numerous part numbers. So far I have found 4 that appear to be compatible with this machine (W10246302, W10205976, W10205839 and W10525356). Can you verify this is correct?
|
|
|
Joe...did you mean 9-10k ohms? That is what my sensor measures and I can se the value change if you submerge it in warm (reading decreases) or cold water (reading increases).
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: Dblboinger Thanks Joe...I already have the tech sheet and ran through the Fault History and the Diagnostic Test. I have a F-01 error and the diagnostic test fails at the 6th stage...the "Delicate" indicator comes on, but the drain pump does not run. I'm dealing with a 400 series washer, so both of these things indicate the CCU is defective. In reading previous dealings with similar issues, replacement of the CCU has NOT corrected the problem. Someone on here said they were able to get the unit to show additional error codes, but mine only shows that one. That same person also said it ended up being a temperature sensor that was causing the problem. I'd like to know what this sensor should read with an ohm-meter connected. Can you help with that?
The CCU board is over $200 and I'd assume is not returnable once it has been connected. Furthermore, every place I have looked, this item has been on factory back order, which probably means it is no longer available. Add the fact that I've had 3 Maytag repair shops tell me they have never had to replace this board. I'd much rather "waste" my time and money testing and replacing a $3 part than a $200 part, but I'd like to test that $3 part is possible.
BTW, I have already replaced the drain pump. My symptoms are as follows: the washer starts, fills the tub and completes the wash cycle. When the unit proceeds to the spin cycle the water does not drain and the washer power shuts off. All LED's are off except the Door Locked indicator. Only by following the tech sheet was I able to find the F-01 error.
It is a model MHWZ400TQ01 and the CCU part number I have is W10525356. Dblboinger, There are several tests, you'll want to conduct. The temp. sensor Part number: AP5645943
Should have a resistance of 9 to 10 ohms, at room temperature, with the wires disconnected. Once tested and the wires re attached, you want to check the resistance across the wires that plug into the TH2 connector at the CCU. the resistance should be the same, unless there's a loose wire connection, or damaged wire, etc. The next thing to do is disconnect the wires to the drain pump, attach your meter probes to the wire terminals, and conduct the diagnostics / test mode. When the test reaches the 6th step, and the drain pump should run, check to see if there is 120 VAC across the wires, no voltage would indicate a fault in the CCU or damaged wire. If there is voltage, we'll need to start checking for a polarized, grounded, 120 VAC outlet and power supply, and a loose or damaged ground wire in the wire harness causing line noise and disrupting the CCU Part number: AP5781703
|
|
|
Thanks Joe...I already have the tech sheet and ran through the Fault History and the Diagnostic Test. I have a F-01 error and the diagnostic test fails at the 6th stage...the "Delicate" indicator comes on, but the drain pump does not run. I'm dealing with a 400 series washer, so both of these things indicate the CCU is defective. In reading previous dealings with similar issues, replacement of the CCU has NOT corrected the problem. Someone on here said they were able to get the unit to show additional error codes, but mine only shows that one. That same person also said it ended up being a temperature sensor that was causing the problem. I'd like to know what this sensor should read with an ohm-meter connected. Can you help with that?
The CCU board is over $200 and I'd assume is not returnable once it has been connected. Furthermore, every place I have looked, this item has been on factory back order, which probably means it is no longer available. Add the fact that I've had 3 Maytag repair shops tell me they have never had to replace this board. I'd much rather "waste" my time and money testing and replacing a $3 part than a $200 part, but I'd like to test that $3 part is possible.
BTW, I have already replaced the drain pump. My symptoms are as follows: the washer starts, fills the tub and completes the wash cycle. When the unit proceeds to the spin cycle the water does not drain and the washer power shuts off. All LED's are off except the Door Locked indicator. Only by following the tech sheet was I able to find the F-01 error.
It is a model MHWZ400TQ01 and the CCU part number I have is W10525356.
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: Dblboinger How did you get the unit to display an additional error code? I have this exact same problem and find the CCU is on factory back order and may not be available, not to mention it's expensive. I'd hate to waste my time and money ordering a part only to find it does not fix the problem. Dblboinger, the tech data information sheet is usually taped to the inside of the lower access panel front panel. You'll need to remove the two screws at the bottom of the panel and pull down and out to remove it. Just follow the instructions and you'll have all the available codes and programming information needed to diagnose and repair the washer.
|
|
|
This was a duplicate post
|
|
|
How did you get the unit to display an additional error code? I have this exact same problem and find the CCU is on factory back order and may not be available, not to mention it's expensive. I'd hate to waste my time and money ordering a part only to find it does not fix the problem. Originally Posted by: tspiers I think I found the problem. I was able to get the diagnostic mode to display the last error code....it was F24, which is a problem with the water temperature sensor. I found a broken wire on the water temperature sensor connection. I was able to repair the connection and the problem went away. However, while testing several things, I broke the door switch and just ordered another one. I hoping this will resolve all my problems and will respond back as soon as I get my part.
:o :o :o
|
|
|
Originally Posted by: imbacnow My washer (Maytag Epic Z) has been sitting idle for months. I experienced the exact same problem and tried everything to troubleshoot the washer, only to come up empty. Finally, i admitted defeat and decided to request service. However, while browsing the internet in search of a reputable repair man in my area, I happened to come across this thread! I removed the rear panel and there it was! A disconnected wire. When i touched the other wire leading to the temperature sensor, it also easily disconnected. I quickly repaired the connection
And now my washer is as good as gold.
This is an obvious flaw in design and should be high on any service tech or DIY's
Troubleshooting checklist for this model!
Thanks guys for your detailed responses and tips! You saved me big $$$'s!
Oh, by the way! Joe, your new title is JOE / APP GOD!!! imbacnow, We're glad we could help you out, or at least get you on track. Thanks for your update, it will help others, we're sure. Thanks for the vote of confidence, but that's a bit much. We have a great group of responders on this forum, and we make a pretty good, knowledgeable team. We're here to help our consumers and each other. Keep us in mind, and Thanks Again !!!
|
|
|
My washer (Maytag Epic Z) has been sitting idle for months. I experienced the exact same problem and tried everything to troubleshoot the washer, only to come up empty. Finally, i admitted defeat and decided to request service. However, while browsing the internet in search of a reputable repair man in my area, I happened to come across this thread! I removed the rear panel and there it was! A disconnected wire. When i touched the other wire leading to the temperature sensor, it also easily disconnected. I quickly repaired the connection
And now my washer is as good as gold.
This is an obvious flaw in design and should be high on any service tech or DIY's
Troubleshooting checklist for this model!
Thanks guys for your detailed responses and tips! You saved me big $$$'s!
Oh, by the way! Joe, your new title is JOE / APP GOD!!!
|
