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Hi Mike,
You are very welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix. For many years in business I found that very often most complicated problems end up being simpler than they seemed. :)
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Hi Mike,
Sorry for the delay.
Did you replace the wire harness together with the ice maker?
Did you verify 120 VAC between the "L" & "N" test points before jumping "T" & "H" test points?
Make sure the test probes and wire ends go at least 1/2" into the test points.
Gene. Gene, Thank you so much for this blog. Your not going to believe how I fixed my problem. I won't go though everything because I already told you what all I have done. This will certinly make you laugh. When I received the new icemaker there was a thin metal rod that was bent and loose in the package. I didn't seem to need it because this model fridge didn't need it. finaly it dawned on me, the switch on the new icemaker where that metal rod goes was turned off I turned it on with a little screw driver and now I'm making ice like wild. Thanks, Mike
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Hi Mike,
Sorry for the delay.
Did you replace the wire harness together with the ice maker?
Did you verify 120 VAC between the "L" & "N" test points before jumping "T" & "H" test points?
Make sure the test probes and wire ends go at least 1/2" into the test points.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Hi Mike,
I'm afraid you replaced the optic boards without proper diagnostic, just by guessing. In the situation you described, the most suspicious part is the water inlet valve.
If the new water valve will fix the problem, put the old optic boards back and give them a try. Then you can return the optic boards if you ordered them from APP.
Gene. Hi Gene, I just replaced the ice maker water valve that I recieved from you today and it still doesn't work. I tried the jumper test in the T & H holes and the ice maker will not run so I can draw water. As you can see I have replaced everything without success, any sugestions? Thanks, Mike
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Hi Mike,
I'm afraid you replaced the optic boards without proper diagnostic, just by guessing. In the situation you described, the most suspicious part is the water inlet valve.
If the new water valve will fix the problem, put the old optic boards back and give them a try. Then you can return the optic boards if you ordered them from APP.
Gene.
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I also am having problems with the icemaker in my Whirlpoolside by side refrigerator model # ED5SHAXMB10. The icemaker was leaking waterso I did research on your site but could not correct the problem by adjustmentsso I ordered a new one from your web site. I installed the new icemaker and itwon’t run or fill with water even after I used the jumper wire to test it. Atthis point I decided it must be the optic control boards so I replaced themalso and it still won’t run. I now have a new water valve on the way. I madesure the water line was not frozen.
I didn’t mind replacing the icemaker because a film coveringthe ice tray was coming off into the ice.
Do you have any suggestions other than what you have alreadycovered on this site?
Thanks,
Mike
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Will do, thanks for all your help!
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I would buy the entire icemaker, not much more money.
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could I buy just the control module or would you suggest getting the entire ice maker assembly? Originally Posted by: richappy Seems like a bad icemaker, common for these to fail.
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Seems like a bad icemaker, common for these to fail.
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