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Originally Posted by: ghauptman  Just a follow-up....
1. Ice Maker status:
The Freezer temp is -3 degrees F. No issue there.
After thawing the IM Filler tube, I let the IM continue to run as normal, trying to see if the filler tube would freeze-up again.... IM has been running fine now for about 3 weeks without any issue.
2. Thru-the-Door-Water-Dispenser:
I ordered the back panel that holds the micro-switches in-place.
At first glance (with lots of wires and connections) it appeared it was going to be difficult/messy to replace. Actually, it was very easy. Replaced in less than 5 minutes.
Water-thru-the-door working fine now.
A Happy Wife is a Happy Life.....
Thanks for all of your help.
I still have the dual-inlet water valve that ordered first without a complete diagnosis. I'll probably just hold on to this value in case my IM Filler Tube really turns out to be a leaky inlet valve. Greg, Great Job !! and Thanks for the update. Sounds like everything will be alright. Yes, You should hold on to the water valve, we're sure you'll need it in the near future. Thanks Again,
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Just a follow-up....
1. Ice Maker status:
The Freezer temp is -3 degrees F. No issue there.
After thawing the IM Filler tube, I let the IM continue to run as normal, trying to see if the filler tube would freeze-up again.... IM has been running fine now for about 3 weeks without any issue.
2. Thru-the-Door-Water-Dispenser:
I ordered the back panel that holds the micro-switches in-place.
At first glance (with lots of wires and connections) it appeared it was going to be difficult/messy to replace. Actually, it was very easy. Replaced in less than 5 minutes.
Water-thru-the-door working fine now.
A Happy Wife is a Happy Life.....
Thanks for all of your help.
I still have the dual-inlet water valve that ordered first without a complete diagnosis. I'll probably just hold on to this value in case my IM Filler Tube really turns out to be a leaky inlet valve.
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Originally Posted by: ghauptman Joe,
For me to get access to Jumper T to H, I had to remove the IM because the contol module of the IM is very tight up against the left wall of the Freezer. While removing the IM I realize the Filler Tube is rock hard..... Yep, frozen water in the Filler Tube. I thaw with a Hair Dryer, then re-install the IM. Within a few minutes, the IM request water and the water is delivered. A few minutes later, Ice ejected into the Ice Bucket.
The IM has now gone through several cycles, producing normal size ice.
My guess is the water inlet valve not shutting off completely is the culprit for the frozen filler tube. I will observe over the next couple of days and report back findings.
Are there any other areas I should check that would cause the frozen filler tube?
Thanks,
Greg Greg, Yes, there are other possibilities. We're back to replacing the fill valve. Most frozen fill tubes are due to a "seeping" fill valve solenoid. Water drips around the diaphragm, fills the tube and the cold temperature causes the water to freeze and "block" the line. Also check the freezer air temperature, you're looking for an average temperature of 3 to 5 dgrs.F, this translates to a product temperature of 0 dgrs.F.
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Joe,
For me to get access to Jumper T to H, I had to remove the IM because the contol module of the IM is very tight up against the left wall of the Freezer. While removing the IM I realize the Filler Tube is rock hard..... Yep, frozen water in the Filler Tube. I thaw with a Hair Dryer, then re-install the IM. Within a few minutes, the IM request water and the water is delivered. A few minutes later, Ice ejected into the Ice Bucket.
The IM has now gone through several cycles, producing normal size ice.
My guess is the water inlet valve not shutting off completely is the culprit for the frozen filler tube. I will observe over the next couple of days and report back findings.
Are there any other areas I should check that would cause the frozen filler tube?
Thanks,
Greg
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Originally Posted by: ghauptman Thanks Joe,
I have checked the wiring harness at the top of freezer hinge cover. All visually appears in perfect order.
I removed the Freezer door dispenser cover and found one of the little plastic arms and one of the plastic pegs that holds the water dispenser micro-switch in-place were cracked. I guess someone depressed the paddle really hard. So, the micro-switch was not being held in-place and was flopping around in there. When I manually activated the micro-switch I got water thru the door without delay.
Not sure if there is an effective way to repair the broken micro-switch bracket arm and peg. Or, do I need to replace the entire plastic back-panel piece in the door-front?
Bottom-line, seems water thru the door works.
What is your suggestion for further diagnosis of the Ice Maker? You may want to replace the bracket assembly Part number: AP2988571
Or if you have the tools, you could trim off the switch tabs, drill a very small hole in the bracket where the tabs were located and use a couple of small screws(available at the local hardware store) and re mount the switches using that method. Once you have the dispenser issue solved, you'll want to tape the freezer door light switch closed, Tape the emitter flapper down, and then "jump" "T" to "H" openings in the front control module with a length of 14 gauge, insulated wire with the insulation removed from both ends of the wire. When the rake arm reaches the 1 or 2 o'clock position, the water valve should activate and dispense 4 to 4.5 ounces of water into the ice maker mold, in approximately 7 to 10 seconds, if all is working proper.
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Thanks Joe,
I have checked the wiring harness at the top of freezer hinge cover. All visually appears in perfect order.
I removed the Freezer door dispenser cover and found one of the little plastic arms and one of the plastic pegs that holds the water dispenser micro-switch in-place were cracked. I guess someone depressed the paddle really hard. So, the micro-switch was not being held in-place and was flopping around in there. When I manually activated the micro-switch I got water thru the door without delay.
Not sure if there is an effective way to repair the broken micro-switch bracket arm and peg. Or, do I need to replace the entire plastic back-panel piece in the door-front?
Bottom-line, seems water thru the door works.
What is your suggestion for further diagnosis of the Ice Maker?
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Originally Posted by: ghauptman I've included a couple of photos below of under the freezer door. No wiring harness or flexible plastic conduit in sight. Perhaps there is another place for the wiring harness for my model. As I posted earlier, both water value solenoids are working fine when I apply 120V.   How to replace pump & motor.pdf (1,122kb) downloaded 12 time(s). Greg Greg, Thanks for the correction and photos. The wire harness will be under the freezer door top hinge cover Part number: AP3130466
You'll need to remove the screw in the top of it and lift it off the door hinge. What we're trying to determine at this point, is if you have a wiring issue(loose connection, frayed wire, or weak crimp on a wire) with your test to the fill valve, when you attach the meter leads and to the wires and press the paddle, if the voltage appears on the meter, we'd have to presume you have a wiring issue, and the wiring can't "carry the voltage load" and activate the solenoid. Or you do have a fault in the actuator switch or wiring in the dispenser. We'll be conducting a similar test when we get to start testing the ice maker ( it's a bit more involved). The likelihood of both systems failing is remote, but possible. The attached wiring diagram and ice maker test information may be more helpful.
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Cleaning the condenser coils will help to produce proper temperatures and make the refrigerator run more efficiently, but won't affect the dispenser. You need to check and clean that coil assembly at least once a year. We're pretty sure, you'll find the wire harness at the bottom of the freezer door, it may be wrapped in a plastic mesh tube, but should run along the side of the water tube into the door, and will have a connector to plug into the cabinet wire harness a few inches into the base compartment of the refrigerator, along the left wall of the cabinet. You'll need to get a multi meter or at least a test light, disconnect the wires from the water dispenser solenoid on the fill valve. Attach the meter leads to the wires for the solenoid, and press the water dispenser paddle, you should have 120 VAC, across the two wires, if not, you'll need to dismantle the dispenser and check the actuator switch. If you have the voltage, you'll need the water fill valve Part number: AP5263471
I've included a couple of photos below of under the freezer door. No wiring harness or flexible plastic conduit in sight. Perhaps there is another place for the wiring harness for my model. As I posted earlier, both water value solenoids are working fine when I apply 120V. How to replace pump & motor.pdf (1,122kb) downloaded 12 time(s). Greg
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Originally Posted by: ghauptman I failed to mention the paddles in the last post.
The Ice dispenser paddle works just fine. The auger in the Ice bucket turns when paddle is triggered. On Water dispenser paddle, I can not hear the "click" of the micro switch (but, then again, I'm hard of hearing...).
Still no Ice and no Water thru the door. Cleaning the condenser coils will help to produce proper temperatures and make the refrigerator run more efficiently, but won't affect the dispenser. You need to check and clean that coil assembly at least once a year. We're pretty sure, you'll find the wire harness at the bottom of the freezer door, it may be wrapped in a plastic mesh tube, but should run along the side of the water tube into the door, and will have a connector to plug into the cabinet wire harness a few inches into the base compartment of the refrigerator, along the left wall of the cabinet. You'll need to get a multi meter or at least a test light, disconnect the wires from the water dispenser solenoid on the fill valve. Attach the meter leads to the wires for the solenoid, and press the water dispenser paddle, you should have 120 VAC, across the two wires, if not, you'll need to dismantle the dispenser and check the actuator switch. If you have the voltage, you'll need the water fill valve Part number: AP5263471
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Originally Posted by: ghauptman Thanks for the reply Joe...
I manually applied 120V to each solenoid (with an old lamp cord). The Water Dispenser gets water thru the door without triggering the paddle (wife had cup ready to catch the water).
When I applied 120V to the Ice Maker solenoid I first thought I'm not getting any water to the IM because I asked my wife to stick her fingers in the IM to detect any water. She says no water. So I fairly quickly stop that test.
So I disconnect the tubing at the IM solenoid and re-energize. Now I get water thru the IM solenoid. So, as I am writing this post I'm thinking I better go back to check the IM. There is ice in first two little water catch areas in the IM. So, I'm now thinking water did make it to the IM, my wife did not feel the water, and I didn't let the IM solenoid run long enough.
So bottom-line, both water solenoids are working fine.
I can not see a wiring harness at the bottom of the freezer door. The only thing I can see is the water tubing running up into the door.
Please help point me the wiring harness.
One other thing. As I removed the front grill the coils to the right side are completely clogged with lint. Of course I vacuumed off the coils. Could this have anything to do with my problem (no water, no ice). I failed to mention the paddles in the last post. The Ice dispenser paddle works just fine. The auger in the Ice bucket turns when paddle is triggered. On Water dispenser paddle, I can not hear the "click" of the micro switch (but, then again, I'm hard of hearing...). Still no Ice and no Water thru the door.
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