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Before ordering try to remove the faceplate from the clock. Hopefully I am wrong. There is no use getting a new one unless it is absolutely necessary.
If it is glued down, heat around the outside with a hairdryer this will often loosen up the glue to make removal easier.
These days I think most companies make good units and not so good units.
I am not a GE fan as trying to get any tech info on their equipment is very difficult. I try to stay away from fancy, the more bells on a unit the more things that can go wrong. Also they will sell less of these so they will go obsolete quicker. Stay with well established suppliers, not that many years ago Bosch dishwashers were touted as the most reliable but then they had not sold a great number. Today you will see lots of them looking for repair help because now they have a fair number of units in the field.
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Thanks I think we're getting close. I'm going to buy the tester today and do a live test that a repairman told me about. Using an old lamp cord to test elements from 110 outlet.
The new clock is about $150 and can't be returned. Plua the touch clear cover on the front is not included and is hard to remaove and reinstall, another $40 yippy. I haven't seen where I could buy the new boxes just the entire clock.
Is Frijidaire junk? What do you think is the best brand name for ovens and Refrigeraters if I buy new ones someday?
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i keep thinking now that it must be one of the little black boxes on the back of the clock circuit board.
Could be. The black boxes are relays which close a set of contacts supplying power to the element. The clock opens/closes these relays
I'm not sure if cicuit bord is the right term but
Spelling is wrong but the term is right
all the parts catalogs just call that thing "CLOCK"
Yes you will see it called a number of things depending on the manufactures.
I like the term EOC (Electronic Oven Control)
I don't see any errors coming up either.
No, you will not get an error. The electronics just knows that it tried to close the relay, they do not monitor that the relay actually closed.
I am also leaning towards it being the board/clock.
Note: I am not sure how the overlay is held to the clock, many are glued on (double sided tape) so you may need a new one of those. See "Backguard" section in the parts breakdown, They are 20A and F20 towards the bottom of the list.
Again the only way to be 100% sure that it is the clock is to measure the elements and the wires to ensure they are OK and then by the process of elimination, it must be the clock.
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Everything on the oven works except the oven elements. Range burners work, light works, fan works. Still no heat. as for check continuity that's something I need to learn and I'm sure someone who knows how to do it thinks it's easy but I need to learn those things by seeing soemone else do them and explaining it.
Anyway as I repeatedly look over the back of my oven and the wiring i keep thinking now that it must be one of the little black boxes on the back of the clock circuit board. I'm not sure if cicuit bord is the right term but all the parts catalogs just call that thing "CLOCK" even though it contians the eleictrical for the oven controls. I don't see any errors coming up either. I tried Broil and bake again lastnight and I got nothing. After looking at the elements and insulation closer i think they are fine. The dark must be from smokeand grease trying to escape the oven because it's on every whole higher up in the oven. Making since becasue heat rises and carrys the smoke up.
I'm surprised this isn't a more common occurance with a common fix.
Thanks for all your help I'm getting a little desperate now.
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By burnt insulation do you mean the coating on the element itself OR the insulating blanket (fiberglass) which insulates the oven cavity.
The upper element is the broil, the lower is the bake.
If the broil element is toast (an open circuit), you should still get heat from the bake element so I do not think this will fix your problem.
PS Since you enjoy this type of stuff!!
The below would have allowed you to measure the broil element to see if it was shot.
I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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I finally got back to this and i read more on your website tips. The oven doesn't seem to heat at all and the range and clock work fine. I took it apart again lastnight and the upper element had burnt insulation ut the bottom did not. The light looked burnt but that could have been oven residue. I ordered the upper element.
Is it common that the light and upper element could be on the same line or have some type of relationship. Also I apprecitated the note on the infinite switch. I may need that next if the element doesn't fix it. I love doing these things and learning so I can help others if it ever happens to them.
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I'll run through all the items to see what is working and what does not.
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To start with, identify what works and what doesn't, that way we can isolate the problem. Try all the elements and verify they turn on and off, along with the hot surface and element on lights. Test the oven light using the switch and opening the door. Verify if the clock works and even try broil and self clean to see if anything happens. From that information, we can narrow down your search.
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I'm not the best at following the wireing diagrams but It will be helpful. It would be nice if the could seperate the parts that are for the range top and for the oven so that if one goes out then you have half as many items to look at.
The flash happend between the Back left burner and the the warming burner or more behind the back left burner.
I think I could fix it if I just locate it, i'm normally ok on the handy side but obviously you uhave to know what you're looking at. Its obviously and electrical issue that has to do with the oven so we can focus it down to that.
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