[CMT13]

I dryed a load, i was gona restart to heat clothes up and it would not start back up...that was a few days ago...still will not start...need to know if the door or timer.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for ADMIRAL ADE20N3V Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Since you did not mention it, I am assuming the unit seems totally dead re: no noise at all when you try to start it.

Try flipping your breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip
IF OK
Plug the unit in and check for the correct voltage at the terminal strip.
Be careful 240 volts is lethal !!!
If OK
Then at the top of the list is the thermal fuse (Item 5 in Section 4)
If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, shopuld be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the heater is OK then I would also replace the hi-limit thermostat as this should have regulated the temperature so that the fuse did not blow. As you can see in the parts that it comes with one Item 5 in Section 4.

You still have to find the cause.
It could be:
A dirty/loose blower wheel
A dirty vent system or it's outside louvers are not opening.
A bad cycling (control) thermostat. Note this is a 4 connector thermostat.
One set is the contacts. The other set is the internal heater, should be around 25,000 ohms. This is used to give you different heat settings.

Also high on the list is the start switch and the door switch.
Then the timer and then the motor

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.