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SteveDB  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, April 16, 2013 10:47:38 AM(UTC)
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SteveDB

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 60

Hi.
Dryer Model# GGW9250PW2
Part # ap3132867

My dryer does not heat. I talked-- using chat-- with a tech earlier, and he seems to think it's the thermal fuse that's gone out. I've saved the contents of the chat, for future record.

I've opened the back of the dryer, taken a vacuum cleaner to all the lint it's collected (wow! that's a lotta lint!), and have taken a picture of the top of the vent exhaust.

I've also watched the video, and it is not the same model as mine, so I don't see what they show for the location of the thermal fuse.

If you provide me a direct email, I can show you a picture I took of where I see what appears to be two fuses-- on top of the dyer vent exhaust in front.

However, in looking at the parts diagram, it appears the thermal fuse is not on the exhaust vent, but in the heat intake vent. My unit appears different than the image used for the diagram, so I'm not real clear on this. Again, please provide me with an email, and I can email pictures for greater clarification.
Thank you.
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SteveDB  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, April 16, 2013 11:57:23 AM(UTC)
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SteveDB

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Joined: 9/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 60

ok, addendum.

I've spoken, on the phone, with a sales clerk. They pointed out where the thermal fuse is-- on the exhaust blower housing. I then found that the element on the heat intake cone is the high level thermostat. I checked both, and they appear to be fine-- I get noise on my meter. It's set at 20k ohms. If I'm supposed to set it at some other value, I suppose I need to know that...

In removing the wires from the thermostat, I noticed that the wire ends are tainted a brownish color, from what I can only guess is due to being so close to a high heat source-- the burner flame. I did check those for continuity, and no noise. I can only guess here that it's because the circuit is inactive due to the machine being unplugged.
I suppose my question here would then-- how would I test these? It's only the plastic covers that are browned.

I see nothing else that would give any clear signs of a problem there.

Thoughts here would be appreciated.
Simon / APP Team  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, April 16, 2013 12:02:24 PM(UTC)
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Simon / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556

Hi.

Your thermal fuse is on the top of the blower housing, behind the kick panel. As you noticed your model is different from the one in the video clip.
Remove two screws and pull down and out the kick panel.
Take the lint filter out, take two screws holding the lint duct #45 and remove it.
The thermal fuse will be right in front of you, next to the thermistor

Part number: AP3132867
Part number: AP3132867


Before replacing it check the continuity first and if it's open - replace it.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Bulkhead parts for Whirlpool GGW9250PW2 - AppliancePartsPros.com

Post the results.

Simon.
Simon / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, April 16, 2013 12:11:42 PM(UTC)
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Simon / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556

Sorry, we where typing at the same time.
Did you take off the wires from the fuse and hi limit when you were testing them?
When everything is back together(except the kick panel) set the dryer for heat and check if the ignitor glows, cycling on and off.
Post the results.

Simon.
SteveDB  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, April 16, 2013 12:25:14 PM(UTC)
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SteveDB

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Joined: 9/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 60

Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Sorry, we where typing at the same time.
Did you take off the wires from the fuse and hi limit when you were testing them?
When everything is back together(except the kick panel) set the dryer for heat and check if the ignitor glows, cycling on and off.
Post the results.

Simon.


Hi Simon.
Thanks for the timely response.

Yes, I removed wires, and the hi-limit T-stat/T-fuse from their homes, brought them out to me, and checked continuity. The meter squawked on both of them.

(I've got the back opened up to access all this. There's no way I would've found the T-fuse from the front for my model.)

Haven't reassembled the dryer back yet. Wanted to make sure that something else wasn't happening first.
SteveDB  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, April 16, 2013 1:50:20 PM(UTC)
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SteveDB

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Well, I pulled the thermistor, and got no continuity from that. I called and spoke with the same guy I'd chatted with this morning, and he said there should be continuity. So, I've ordered the part.... we'll see how that goes.
Be back in 2 days after I've installed the new part.
Till then.
Thanks.
Simon / APP Team  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, April 16, 2013 3:40:44 PM(UTC)
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Simon / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556

OK. You are saying that the dryer you have model number GGW9250PW2 has a thermal fuse at the back.
Did you look at the diagram I've posted earlier? Is it the same as your dryer?
Where is the thermistor located?

Your thermistor at room temperature is about 10000 ohms, so set the meter to the appropriate scale.
You never answer my question: Does the ignitor glows at all?
SteveDB  
#8 Posted : Sunday, April 21, 2013 4:08:16 PM(UTC)
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SteveDB

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 60

Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
OK. You are saying that the dryer you have model number GGW9250PW2 has a thermal fuse at the back.
Did you look at the diagram I've posted earlier? Is it the same as your dryer?
Where is the thermistor located?

Your thermistor at room temperature is about 10000 ohms, so set the meter to the appropriate scale.
You never answer my question: Does the ignitor glows at all?



hi Simon. Please forgive the tardy response.

As to your question-- no, the thermal fuse was not at the back. It was near the front-- I however did not know that, and just decided to open the back-- not knowing where anything was-- so I could see what to look for. I was eventually told where it was located, and so worked through each item.

Another tech responded directly by Tuesday afternoon, and we worked through a number of items until Friday.
The thermistor is not it (in my laundry room, on top of the machine, on mid Friday afternoon, it tested at 1.39, with the meter set @ 20K-- The tech I had on the phone said this was within tolerance), the thermal fuse is not it. the hi-limit thermostat is not it. I bought the igniter-- it is not the problem, and I do get a voltage of 123V at the plug of the igniter. I then spoke with a young man on the phone on Saturday, and he thought it was the flame sensor. I pulled the sensor out, and followed his instructions.

I placed it near a light source, and got a resistance back of 0.00 ohms on the meter.
I then placed it inside the box the igniter came in for 10-20 seconds, and the resistance (I set the meter @ 20k) was a range of 2.85 to 0. It took a few seconds, but once I pulled it back into the naturally lit room-- my kitchen-- it dropped from the 2.85 to 0.
The young man I spoke with told me-- if there is no change, the flame sensor is bad. he could not however tell me what-- "no change" meant. he was nice, and tried to be helpful, but felt unsure.


I also checked the resistances of the Solenoids, on the gas valve. Each was within tolerance, according to the tech on the phone.

I've already bought the thermistor, and once it was determined it was not the right part, I was refunded. I then bought the ignitor, at the recommendation of another tech who worked extensively with me through this on the phone-- it does not appear to be the issue either.

My wife is ready to go buy a replacement dryer, though I am not.

All that said... still-- no heat, no flame, nada.... It works fine beyond that though.
Simon / APP Team  
#9 Posted : Monday, April 22, 2013 8:54:46 AM(UTC)
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Simon / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556

Hi, Steve.

Thanks for the information. Lets cut it to the skeleton.
Please follow me.
You start the dryer, calling for heat.
The tumbler start rotating.
The ignitor start glowing for 5 - 10 sec.
Ignitor shots off.
The burner doesn't light and ignitor cycling on, off.

If this picture is correct and the shot off gas valve behind the dryer is open, only then - replace the gas safety valve. It comes with the control coils.

Part number: AP5631292
Part number: AP5631292


Simon.
SteveDB  
#10 Posted : Monday, April 22, 2013 10:45:01 AM(UTC)
Quote
SteveDB

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 60

Originally Posted by: Simon / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Hi, Steve.

Thanks for the information. Lets cut it to the skeleton.
Please follow me.
You start the dryer, calling for heat.
The tumbler start rotating.
The ignitor start glowing for 5 - 10 sec.
Ignitor shots off.
The burner doesn't light and ignitor cycling on, off.

If this picture is correct and the shot off gas valve behind the dryer is open, only then - replace the gas safety valve. It comes with the control coils.

Part number: AP5631292
Part number: AP5631292


Simon.


Good morning Simon.
Igniter does not glow.
I literally get nothing from the igniter. There is however, 123V at plug of igniter, when machine turned on.
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