[funday]

Initially washer would pop GFCI repeatedly throughout a complete cycle. Assumed faulty GFCI and plugged the washer into regular outlet, ran fine for a few days then it would not pump water to the drain, as no GFCI being utilized fried a lid switch already on its way to default in time that the regular outlet utilized cooked any remaining life of the lid switch. Installed new lid switch and corrected that issue. Now when beginning a washer cycle, once water fills and when engaging agitatation it pops the GFCI, after resetting completes cycle normally. Concern is the GFCI, obviously established a potential problem as stated above. So currently am simply resetting GFCI after initial agitation pops it and can live with that. However, something is wrong and currently cluess what it is. Any insight would be appreciated, on why only initial agatation upon attempting to engaged, pops GFCI, then after resetting it, washer runs normally completing the cycle. Thanks

[Gene]

Originally Posted by funday

...when engaging agitatation it pops the GFCI...

It is not recommended by all of manufacturers to use a GFCI for any large home appliances. You can find more information about this issue in one of our previous threads: dryer blowing gfi outlet

In order to make sure there is nothing wrong with your washer you casn measure the current drawn by the washer at the time when it pops the GFCI. If it's less than 9.8 amps (on the motor high speed) then there is nothing wrong with the washer. Otherwise it needs more troubleshooting.

Gene.

[funday]

Thanks Gene,

As I was thinking the GFCI was doing me a favor in somewhat diagnosing a problem. Since the lid switch failed when I changed the power source to a regular outlet, as the washer worked for a few days just fine and then the lid switch failed that made spinning and discharge of drum water impossible. But I am now seeing your point, also the GFCI's I noticed, are not USA made, being even more prone to causing problems.