[LesterS]

dryer is from 1982, they don't make 'em like this anymore! there is full voltage (115v) at both terminals of the thermal fuse located in lint exhaust duct and at both terminals of the door switch. no power present (see below) at main on/off switch (3 terminal push switch). I recorded about 9.5v at terminals of all the following:
- (3) thermostats in lint duct
- (1) thermostat in heat duct
- appropriate terminals of main on/off switch in each position
- both terminals of selector switch in main panel
- all but (1) terminal of the timer assy, which recorded near 0v no matter what position timer was set at (all other terminals of this timer assy recorded the same 9.5v)

about 2 months ago replaced magnetic coils assy on gas valve and has been working fine til now.

[Simon / APP Team]

Hi.

Unplug the dryer. Remove one lid off the thermal fuse and check it for continuity.
If you are reading the 115V across the fuse that means it's open.

Thank you. Post the results.

Simon.

[LesterS]

Originally Posted by Simon / APP Team

Hi.

Unplug the dryer. Remove one lid off the thermal fuse and check it for continuity.
If you are reading the 115V across the fuse that means it's open.

Thank you. Post the results.

Simon.

I'm not an electrician so my terminology might not be precise, I'll try to explain better what I did......with the machine plugged in and both wire leads attached to the thermal fuse, I checked each terminal individually with a probe and the other probe to ground on the machine, in each case I got a full 115v reading so I assumed it is closed/good....I also checked it previously out of the machine for continuity and it was a bit fussy, but the more I checked it (making sure I had good contacts) the more I concluded that it tested positive for continuity. The same testing method was used for the two terminals of the door switch (each terminal individually and ground) which showed 115v on each side. All the other thermostats/controls mentioned in first post were tested the same way, each terminal individually to ground checking for voltage.

[Simon / APP Team]

Hi.

Please except my apologies, for some reason I've decided that you have the electric dryer.
I did the research and couldn't find the wiring diagram, but you should have one.
But first check the door switch actuator it may be just broken off.
Next according the wiring diagram check the timer's contacts for continuity.
Unfortunately I can't be more help without the diagram.

Simon.

[LesterS]

Originally Posted by Simon / APP Team

Hi.

Please except my apologies, for some reason I've decided that you have the electric dryer.
I did the research and couldn't find the wiring diagram, but you should have one.
But first check the door switch actuator it may be just broken off.
Next according the wiring diagram check the timer's contacts for continuity.
Unfortunately I can't be more help without the diagram.

Simon.

ok no problem.....the door switch is in tact and good. the timer has about 5 terminals on it, how do I check them for continuity? when I checked them for voltage, they all showed approx 9.5v except for one that was near 0v (with machine plugged in). so this looked to me like power was going from cord to the thermal fuse first, then door switch, but not to main switch or timer?......I do have a diagram which I can scan/email to you?

[Simon / APP Team]

Please do so.

Simon.

[LesterS]

Originally Posted by Simon / APP Team

Please do so.

Simon.

to what email address?

[Adam / APP Team]

Hey Guys,

Hope you two dont mind me chiming in here.

If you need to share photos you can hit the "Go Advanced" button and click on "Manage Attachments" to attach a file from your computer.

Its much easier and safer for the both of you. Besides.. you guys will be helping many others out here with the same problem

If you have any questions feel free to ask. Im here to help.

[LesterS]

attached is the wiring diagram......power (115v) is present into and out of the thermal fuse and the door switch

[Simon / APP Team]

Hi.

According the diagram there are four things to check:
- thermal fuse
- door switch
- timer contacts Y-BG should be closed
- start switch contact NO should read 120v to the ground when pushed
All continuity checks must be done with one wire off.
Try to install the jumper wire on three first parts (one at the time).
If all of this checks OK - replace the motor.

Here are the breakdown diagram and http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...odel_id=252208

Thank you. Post the results.

Simon.