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tjg1234562003  
#1 Posted : Friday, February 4, 2011 1:53:44 PM(UTC)
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tjg1234562003

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Posts: 1

I don't get ant heat from my dryer anymore. Any help as to what is the problem. Heating element?Fuses?Thermostat?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Saturday, February 5, 2011 12:14:42 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL WED5800SW0 29``ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Heating element?Fuses?Thermostat?[/COLOR]
Could be any of these plus a couple other things.
Note: the thermal fuse for the heater is Item 9 in Section 3 (thermal cut-off).
If it is blown then there are other things you should check before replacing it.
The one on the blower is for the motor.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heater circuit requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
WED5800.pdf (259kb) downloaded 6 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kayakcrzy  
#3 Posted : Saturday, February 5, 2011 1:40:52 AM(UTC)
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kayakcrzy

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Posts: 2,429

It is usually either the thermal cutt of switch, or the element. Unplug the dryer, and take the big back panel off. The element is on the right bottom. There is a few 1/4 inch screws to remove it, on each side of the element housing. The thermal limit switch is on the top left side of the heater housing. It has 2 wires coming to it. If you have an ohm meter, pull the 2 wires off of the thermal limit switch, and check for continuity. If you have any reading it is good. Do the same to the element. Tom Appliance Educator, Appliance Parts, Washer and Dryer Parts, Refridgerator and Freezer Parts, Stove and Oven Parts
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