Wiring diagram for infinite switch W11120791 used in Jenn Air JES9800AAW range

I have a Jenn Air range model JES9800AAW S/N 22471651ET. Thesmaller left front burner goes to full power even when on low, I measured burner surface temp at over 600F with my IR thermometer. Internet searches regarding this behavior indicate the cause is a bad infinite switch burner control.

Your company has a supposedly compatible part available with P/N W11120791, however I havve seen some reviews that indicate it is noty pin for pin compatible with the original Robertshaw control (Amazon review https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B0C6BVZY1D/ref=cm_cr_dp_tb_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8 ). I am attempting to locate a wiring diagram or datasheet for the switch itself (not the range, I already have that) so that I can verify that the switch has the correct pins and functionality, if not it will aid to figure it out if I have the switch data, I’m a retired electrical engineer. Thank you.

There is not a wiring diagram for this but here is how it should be wired. L1 from old switch goes to L1 on new switch, L2 to L2, H1 to H1, P to P and H2 to HC. Here is a picture of the switch with color coding for each one.

Thanks Ed! It corroborates the pinout I found elsewhere but wasn’t certain it was correct.

I attempted to post a reply but it was discarded for some reason. So this is a redo.

I opened the CP up and found the actual original switch is not the same as the Robertshaw MPA-W478-WPM. This is the original switch:

It has 7 wires attached: 3 black, 2 red, and 2 yellow.

This is how they are connected (the P/L1/L2/H1/H2 are marked but cannot see them in the pic, small font, black on black, and obscured by the wires):

This is the LF burner control wiring diagram:

The wiring agrees with the schematic, but the schematic doesn’t show the individual pins.

This is the full wiring schematic:

I can pigtail the two black wires that go to the L1 pins and wither wirenut or solder/insulate and attach a heavy gauge (10 or 12?) wire from the junction to a quick connect terminal and put it on L1, same for the 2 red wires to L2, but am concerned that the pins may not be able to handle the resulting current. In my experience, there is usually a reason that the single L1 and L2 pins were split into two, usually for current handling. I am a retired hardware EE and have designed all sorts of electronics from femtoammeters to multiphase high voltage power distribution networks, and can handle the rewiring, but would like some assurance that the switch won’t burn out due to inadequate pin current-handling capability.

Maybe someone has some experience with this? Help is greatly appreciated! Thanks! - Nick

I’ll approach this another way. Anyone have any idea what is max current draw of the single-element burners in the JES9800AAW range?

Thanks.

Nick

So looking at the switch, each of the wires on the right side are piggybacked. so you have a brass connector and then a connector with a plastic coating over it. IF you pull the wires you will see these as piggyback connections and the wiring will be what we discussed previously.

Hi Ed, thanks. Not clear what you mean by “piggybacked”. There are seven discrete wires terminating in Faston receptacles, which i assume are what you refer to as brass connectors. One each of the wires to L1 (bk) and L2 (red) are insulated Fastons. Are those what to which you are referring?

EDIT I thought about it and I think I understand. You’re saying the pairs of wires are shorted together at the switch? FWIW I didn’t see any shorting bars between the pins on the case even though I had looked at it closely enough to read the pin names on the casing. I will check with an ohmeter to make certain each pin pair is shorted together. I’m between a rock and a hard place, so I’m going to have to just go ahead and rewire those two pairs into two single Fastons if I want to use the burner again.

Thanks again. I’m sorta OCD about making sure everything is correct, my apologies! ItAppreciate your patience!