The dryer was running but needed to run 2 to 3 cycles to dry. I cleaned out dryer discharge hose. It was half clogged and I cleaned it while it was running. Before I finished cleaning the hose the dryer went off. I thought it got to the end of its cycle. Removed front of dryer to remove lent from front of dryer. lint screen would not go all the way down and I thought it was full of lint. Was about 1/2 gal of lint in front. Put back together and tried to start dryer. Will not start. Only thing I messed with electrically was the door shut button on the front of the dryer. How can I check this to see if this is the problem or is there something else it might be? Is there a reset button?
Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for MAYTAG PYE2300AYW DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com
Since you did not get an arc, the odds are you blew the thermal fuse (Item 5 in Section 5).
Note: That it comes with a new hi-limit thermostat. This is because the hi-limit should have opened before the fuse blew so they assume that it’s contacts must be welded together and it also needs replacing.
Unplug the unit and measure the fuse with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to remove the wires going to one side of the fuse, this prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
Would not be a bad idea to also check your heating element.
Undo bothe sides of the heater and measure it. Should be around 12 ohms.
Then measure from each side of the heating element to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms.
If not the element has grounded and needs replacing. A grounded element can cause the heater to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so it blows the fuse.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.