Checked all sensors, fuse and heating elements for continuity and they are fine. Are other other sensors or fuses inside the motor or drum housing I should look for?
Replaced heating element last year.
None. The element could have continuity and still be bad. You should have a reading of 9-13 ohms on most, this would be the likely problem.
[quote=flmeade;274844]Checked all sensors, fuse and heating elements for continuity and they are fine. Are other other sensors or fuses inside the motor or drum housing I should look for?
Replaced heating element last year.[/quote]
Based on your information,
NO, there’s nothing else to check except :
220 Volts AC at the terminal block.
220 Volts across the heater element terminals.
The timer heat circuit.
(with the wires off and the timer set in a timed dry regular heat setting, you should be able to read a closed circuit across the Black and Red terminals on the timer.)
Or a burnt , broken wire in the harness.
*** Be CAREFUL on the VOLTAGE tests, Don’t hurt yourself. ***
Good Luck,
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEN2000JQ0 | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208299793.pdf
The hi-limit and the heater’s thermal fuse are mounted on/close to the heater assembly.
The operating thermostat is mounted on the blower housing.
The thermal fuse on the blower housing is for the motor.
When checking the components did you unhook one side of them. This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose halt the line voltage without actually tripping the breaker.
Yes I disconnected all wires before I tested for continuity. Are there any heat sensors in the blower fan assembly I need take apart to check? Is it possible the heat control on the front panel went bad. I tried setting it to a lower heat setting with no results.
[COLOR=“Blue”] Are there any heat sensors in the blower fan assembly I need take apart to check?[/COLOR]
Yes the operating thermostat is mounted on the outside of the blower (Item 8 in Section 3)
[COLOR=“Blue”]Is it possible the heat control on the front panel went bad. I tried setting it to a lower heat setting with no results.[/COLOR]
Unlikely as all it controls is an heater built into the operating thermostat.
If it was an open you would be on high heat all the time.
Have you reset/checked the power to the unit?
How do I reset power to the unit? Do you mean the 220 volt plug?
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose halt the line voltage without actually tripping the breaker.
If that does nothing either check the power with a meter or get someone in to do it.
If you have an old house that uses fuses in the electrical box check that both fuses are OK.
Okay I’ll try that and check the voltage at the plug. The dryer runs but just no heat. Are there any sensors in the motor housing that would require me to take it out and remove the fan to check?
[COLOR=“Blue”]Are there any sensors in the motor housing that would require me to take it out and remove the fan to check?[/COLOR]
No
Thanks for your help but I had to give up and call a service. They are such simple machines I can’t believe I couldn’t fix it this time. One time I took it completely apart drum and everything because of terrible noises it was making and found that the flap on the ouside vent had fallen off and a squirrel or a chipmunk was storing nuts in it and they were in the fan.
Just got it fixed. The wiring harness to the motor had slipped off just enough to cause the problem. He just pushed back on all the way and the heat came back on. Had to remove drum for the fix.
FL,
Good Deal,
You’re up and running, and it was just a loose connection,
I hope they didn’t charge too much,
The cost to make a service call is getting outrageous these days.
Thanks for the update.
Good Luck,
Cost me $156.00 because i had him replace the belt and the idler pully also. It also gave me chance to remove the vanes in the drum and remove all the loose change that has been rattling around for years. Netted $2.20.
After repair man left I put clothes in the dryer and it wouldn’t run. Called him back and he turned around and found that the white thermal breaker went bad at that moment which he replaced for free.
[quote=flmeade;278502]Cost me $156.00 because i had him replace the belt and the idler pully also. It also gave me chance to remove the vanes in the drum and remove all the loose change that has been rattling around for years. Netted $2.20.
After repair man left I put clothes in the dryer and it wouldn’t run. Called him back and he turned around and found that the white thermal breaker went bad at that moment which he replaced for free.[/quote]
FL,
Man,
What a shame, but, at least he got you running,
Sounds like you may have found a responsible, trustworthy service technician.
The cost sounds about proper for the cost of service and parts now a days,
I think you did alright.
Thanks Again,