Brand: Whirlpool
Model Number: WRX986SIHZ02
Main Symptom: Not cooling & Ice on evaporator panel
What happens & when: Noticed a few days back
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: Service tests 1, 2, 3 & 6
Photos / video link:
Hi, we noticed over the weekend that our refrigerator was in the 55-60F range. The freezer seemed to be operating as normal and the Pantry drawer was maintaining temperatures between 37F and 40F.
We removed the trays and as we got to the pantry drawer, we noticed ice buildup outside the evaporator panel cover. I ran the service tests and can confirm that tests 1, 2 & 3 passed. I’ve also visually verified that the air baffle and evaporator fan are working.
In the back, I’ve confirmed that compressor and condenser fan are running. As the ice started to thaw, I 've also verified that the water is draining into the bottom pan.
I ran test 6 after the ice on the evaporator had fully thawed and I got a reading of ‘02’ and based on my research so far, it appears that this test may be inconclusive. A few youtube videos seem to imply that the sensors connected to the fan may be causing this but I’m not sure.
At this point, I’m at a loss, on what I should do next to get our refrigerator up and running again. Would appreciate your thoughts on it.
There is a known issue with these for this issue. I’m attaching the service pointer that goes over the checks to be made and repairs. I’ve also attached the section of the service manual that goes over getting to the evaporator, can’t attach the whole manual because of the size, and the video attached to the evaporator fan W11087438 parts page goes over getting access to that area on a similar model.
Test 6 only applies to the bi-metal/thermostat on the freezer evap. The fridge section doesn’t have a heater or bi-metal, it uses airflow from the fan to clear the evap.
service-pointer-w11092686-revi.pdf (4.6 MB)
RC Evap Access.pdf (4.3 MB)
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-motor-evap-w11087438-ap6048055.html
Rory, thanks and I truly appreciate the prompt response along with all the details. Is replacing the fan and thermistor (and attaching it tightly at the correct location) the likely solution?
Are you aware of other issues within the bulletin that could be the culprit?
Thanks for the help!
Usually you’ll find a warped drain pan, replacing the drain pan if it is warped and correcting the thermistor location are the 2 most common resolutions for this issue.
Drain pan seems to be flat and intact and can also confirm that water is draining to the lower pan through the drain. So, I’ll focus on correcting the thermistor.
I have not performed Service Test 39 yet, which I believe is the relevant thermistor. Would it be worth performing this test or am I right in assuming that this test may pass even if there is poor contact?
Thanks again!
Those thermistor tests only mean the thermistor in question is reading between 100°F and -30°F if it passes.
Understood. Thanks again, Rory!
I almost forgot one other thing to do. Go to test 7 and change it from 01 to 02 if you haven’t already. That’ll put the defrost on an 8 hour timer instead of an adaptive mode. Being on that 8 hour timer can also help a lot.
Sure. I’ll plan on doing this as well.
Does putting it on the 8 hour timer enable the evaporator defrost regardless of whether or not there is a thermistor issue?
Pretty much. Putting it on that makes both sections go into defrost every 8 hours, the evaporator thermistors tell it when it can stop running defrost. So, still correct the thermistor placement or it’ll stop too early in the fridge section.
Great, will correct the placement and enable the 8 hour defrost mode. Thanks Rory!
After taking a closer look yesterday, it seemed quite obvious that the thermistor clamp might’ve been causing the issue. It was super loose and the thermistor was definitely not touching the evap coil. After adjusting the clamp, I installed the thermistor and zip tied it per the procedure. Also, moved the evap coil assembly as far back as possible and also zip tied it to the back screw using a plastic tube clamp. Also set service test #7 to defrost every 8 hours.
The unit has been running over 12 hours with no visible ice formation on the evap fins when looking from outside the evap panel cover. Temperature got down from 65F to 37F in about 2-3 hours in the refrigerator compartment.
The bottom drain pan was about half full last night and this morning, that level seems to have dropped a bit with the condenser fan running.
The air tower and the rest of the components (bins, trays, removed parts, etc.) are still sitting outside unassembled. Any thoughts on how much longer I should let it run for observation before I put it all back together?
Is there anything else I should check for?
I’d say go ahead and put it back together and just keep an eye on things.
Will do. Thank you so much for helping me navigate this issue…truly appreciate it!