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Brand: Whirlpool Model Number:LTE5243DQB Main Symptom: not drying enough What happens & when:
User says not drying fast enough or requires multiple cycles to dry.
Replaced the lint filter and housing with an Appliance Parts part. No tears.
Checked vent ducting from dryer to outside for dust – minor amount - cleaned
Measured temperature per your video at the exhaust port (removed vent ducting). Measured 126 to 147 degrees F. Ran for 20 minutes on auto cycle. Temp did cycle down to 131 and then back up to 140.
Door latch secures door well.
Checked blower for lint. Minor amount of lint for 6 year old dryer.
Checked lint housing foam seal. Still workable and sealing.
Did not measure the cycling thermostat for continuity but thought if getting heat must be working to some level.
Looking for advice. Change cycling thermostat anyways? Change heating element connecting wire (looks in fine condition).
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
When on the automatic cycle does the dryer shut off at the end of the cycle? I would do this if I was working on this.On the Dryer Cycling Thermostat WP3398128. I would use a multimeter and with alligator clips on both large terminals and the meter set for 240 volts and with no cloth or vent hook up. Run the dryer and watch that meter and when the cycling thermostat opens you will see 240 volts.With this methods I would also use my amp meter and watch the amps.While knowing that if I have no amps after awhile and I should see 240 volts with the voltmeter I know that cycling thermostat is working…But, if no amps and no 240 volts maybe the safety thermostat open or something else shut the heat off. Process of elimination! Amp would be around 20 amps with heater on.In that ball game!
I measured at the heating thermostat. There are two sets of wires. I measured on each pair. Measured 120 when dryer running (set to auto dry). Exiting temperature from duct was 130 degrees to 150 degrees fluctuating up and down. No clothes in the dryer.
I don’t know where to measure for the 20 amps. See photo. Happy to take suggestions.
You want to put the meter probes on both sides of the thermostat and set meter for 240 volts with no vent and cloth and Amp meter where I said to put it. On a heating cycle of coarse.you will not read any voltage until that cycling thermostat opens and then you should read 240 volts.This checks when the amps go to zero and you have 240 volt across that thermostat we would know that the heat was shut off by that thermostat.Thats what we are after. Sometimes if its not heating right it could be shutting off by the safety that it’s not suppose to do if everything is normal. PROBES GO ON THE TWO RED WIRES!!!