Whirlpool gas dryer won't start

Dryer will not start at all, no sounds of any kind can be heard. When you turn the timer switch it clicks some but not like it should.

It could either be the door switch or the push to start switch.

mr. Appliance guy, on a gas dryer, the the thermal fuse being bad the symptom would be no heat!! On a electric whirlpool made dryer the thermal fuse being bad would make the unit dead. I believe you are confused!! Tom.

[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]You must be mad cause I said start switches don’t go bad often and they don’t. I would have to see a wiring diagram but I believe you are wrong. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]

But I am not above being wrong either. Plus I was writing off the top of my head.

None of us are above being wrong. But, if you could understand, someone not knowing what to do, and how to fix there appliance, and asking for help, it would be nice for those to answer the questions with good knowledge, and not confuse the person asking for help. The next time young man, you are out at a customer house, and it is a whirlpool, or Kenmore, or Roper, or Estate, and it is a gas dryer, and it is working fine, pull the wires of the thermal fuse. You will find the dryer will run, but there will be no power to the ignitor. But, Hey what I know, I have only been in the business for thirty years, and soon will be passing this business off to young wippersnappers!! LOL!!! Tom

[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Why are you getting mad? I was just trying to help and I have been repairing appliances for 15 years myself. Again I haven’t seen a wiring diagram and I am not saying that I know you are wrong. But your attitude is not good for that website you are trying to promote. Plus there was no mention in the original post about it being a gas dryer and I didn’t look up the model number (my mistake). I am sorry if I made you mad it was never my intention. Also I still stand behind the comment I made “start switches won’t go bad often” I may have replaced one over the last year. In my option telling someone to check a part that gives as little trouble as start switches is not good either. Although I do agree that it can cause that problem. This will be my last post because I have no intentions of arguing any further. Again sorry if I made you mad [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]

I am no way mad. The model # starts with a LG, the G meaning gas. If it were a LE it would be electric. I would agree the start switches hardly ever go, but, check it out before you answer. We always welcome educated help. After 15 years in the business, I would bet my bottom dollar, that you know your business pretty good. But, I must say, after 30 years, I am still learning everyday. At 51 years old, I still run 8 calls a day, and drive 200 to 250 miles. Also owning my own business. So, again, I am not mad. Tom

[COLOR=Red]sewqueen[/COLOR]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LG5651XMW0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a tech sheet. Note it is for a MW1, I could not find one for a MW0 but it should be close. Yours may be hidden in the control console
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203393988.pdf

First plug something into the outlet just to make sure you have voltage.
Next manually push the door switch/actuator then try the push to start.
Do not run it too long with the door open as you can blow a fuse, this is just a test.
If this does not work then I would use a meter and check the following:

  1. Door switch - should be 0 ohms when door is closed
  2. Push To Start switch - should be 0 ohms when pushed
  3. Timer Switch 2 - should be 0 ohms
  4. Motors coils - see the tech sheet

If you do not have a meter, this may at least narrow it down a bit.
Set unit to a timed dry cycle close the door.
Does the timer advance?
If it does then the door switch and the Timer Switch 2 are OK.

All that is left is the Push To Start switch and the motor.
Or a loose or broken wire.

Denman, I am always thankfull for you. You always bring me back to have patience. Can I claim you as a dependant? LOL!!! You sure are a good man!!! I just have a knack for getting on the bad side of people. That is that darn new York attidude, I just can’t shake it. Thanks for always being there. Can I just call you Dad? LOL!!! Tom

My Whirlpool LE7646EQ2 just went out 4/09. The lent backed-up and the dryer overheated causing the dryer to shut down. It does not run at all. I checked the white fuse (bottom left of dryer) it is bad. This is the first thing I will replace.

Do not forget to clean the vent all the way to the outlet.

Gene.

Note to Tom (kayakcrzy): I know this is an older thread, but I wanted to clarify for others like myself that found this post useful. The thermal fuse is in fact inline with the main power - even on a gas dryer. So if the thermal fuse goes out (which is exactly what happened in my case) the machine is completely dead.

This statement is correct only if your dryer is electric. If the heating source is gas, then the thermal fuse will affect only the heating part of dryer.

Gene.

[QUOTE=Gene;643965]This statement is correct only if your dryer is electric. If the heating source is gas, then the thermal fuse will affect only the heating part of dryer.[/QUOTE]

I guess you didn’t read the rest of my post. In the case of my gas dryer, the electrical schematic places the thermal fuse inline with the main 120 volt power line. Thus (according to the schematic glued to the inside front toe panel on my dryer), if the thermal fuse blows, the entire machine is out - motor, heating circuit, everything. The schematic references gas valves as well, so I’m pretty sure it’s a proper schematic for my gas dryer. I’m not an appliance repair expert, but I have some experience reading schematics. If the schematic is accurate then the thermal fuse stops everything.

Please see the attachment for proof. [ATTACH]3985[/ATTACH]

John
LG5791XSW0-Schematic.jpg (61.1 KB)

In all the whirlpool gas dryers that I come to everyday, if the white thermal fuse in the back goes out, the dryer will run but no heat!!! I don’t know about the diagrahm, but that is the way it is!!! On a electric dryer if the thermal fuse goes out, then the unit will be dead. It has always been that way my 25 years in this business. Tom

[QUOTE=kayakcrzy;644597]In all the whirlpool gas dryers that I come to everyday, if the white thermal fuse in the back goes out, the dryer will run but no heat!!! … It has always been that way my 25 years in this business. Tom[/QUOTE]

Hmmm. Interesting. Well, now you’ve seen an exception to that rule. Like you said in an earlier post, the more experience you get, the more you know that you’re always learning.

John