What is the complete model number of the oven?
What is the part number of the control panel you installed?
Gene.
Gene, first off thanks for posting and helping so many people. It is really appreciated.
I have a Whirlpool Gold Double Wall Oven.
Model Number GBD307PDS09, Serial # XR3400838
I think this thread relates to my issue, but my issue might be slightly different. Also worth noting, The oven was installed in October 2004. The Mother Board and the control panel display have been replaced roughly 4 years ago as my wife was running the self cleaning cycle every other month. She never uses this cycle since these parts were replaced.
Over the past couple of months, I hear some beeps and the display goes blank. I can push buttons and they beep but there is no display. The oven Light will go on. Anywhere from a few hours to a day or 2 goes by, I hear some beeps and the display either comes back on or throws the E6 F2 error code. I can push any button and the error disappears and the oven is fully functional again. And the cycle repeats it self. We can go months without issue, then all of the sudden the issue cycles through over a period of weeks and repeats again.
I thought maybe there was a loose connection so I took the control panel off, used an eraser on the magnetic tape like you suggested earlier. I also made sure the connections to the Control Board were all connected.
Everything is reconnected and the power is on, but the control panel is still blank. This probably needs to be replaced but thought I would check with you first to see if I should check anything else. (Note too, this was a major accomplishment for me to get this far, I am not very handy)
One other thing to note, once I reconnected, the oven did go on but the display was blank. After a couple of minutes, it turned it self off.
Again, thanks in advance for your assistance.
After a 1/2 hour or so after cleaning the ribbon, and repowering the oven, it came back on with the error code. Again I cleared it and the oven works again, at least for now.
Hello,
Based on the information you provided it sounds like the control board is bad, mostly because the display goes blank. There is a small chance for the control panel (keypad) to be bad as well. You may want to replace the control board first. If you need the correct part number for the control panel, post the color of it.
- The control board AP6021414
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for Whirlpool GBD307PDS09 Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
. double post
I’m supposed to cook dinner for 15 friends tomorrow for NYE and I find out that my oven is not functioning! Hope you guys can help. I have a Whirlpool Gold (Model gw397lxus) and the touchpad is only partially responding. My BAKE, BROIL, and top and bottom number rows are not functioning (no beeping sound when pressed). If I click on the WARM button, the oven seems to be heating up to 145deg F as intended. I do not see any error codes and have already tried to unplug the oven for 10 minutes. Any help would be great!
Gene, I noticed you you’re in Orange County. I’m in Irvine. Is this a trivial thing to fix? I’ve had the oven for only 2 years when I bought my new house.
Hello Phi,
As we spoke earlier the problem most likely is a bad membrane switch.
Gene.
It all started w/ the F2-E6 error. I replaced the Electronic Control and started the oven up and started getting F5-E1 followed by F2-E1. Half of the keys on the Control Panel work (off, clock, timer) but nothing on the left (no beeps or anything).
I cleaned the ribbon to the Panel w/ an eraser and noticed a huge difference but I was still unable to clear the F2-E1 error.
I replaced the Door Latch (via APP) and have the Control Panel on order (from APP). I am really wondering though if I need to go ahead and order the daughter board if I am unable to clear the F5 error - or just wait and see if the Control Panel fixes all.
We have been w/o our oven since early December and I just want to move on to a more enjoyable project.
Oven Model - RBD305PDB14
Hello,
Did the error code F5-E1 return after you replaced the door latch? If it did then there is a reason to replace the sister board too.
I’m afraid you replaced the door latch without prior diagnosis. Check the connections between the sister board and the door latch motor first.
Gene.
It did return. I went ahead and placed the order for the board. I wish I had found your forum earlier. It would have saved me about three weeks.
Sorry to hear it. If the new sister board will fix it and you still have the old door latch, put it back and give it a try. If the problem was just a bad sister board, return the door latch to APP.
Gene.
I replaced the board w/ the original latch and I’m still get the F5 error. I put the new latch in and still F5 error. The panel should be here tomorrow. Is there any chance it fixes things or should I really be worried about resolving this F5 problem?
I made a note that the tan wires connect to C1 on the original latch which I assume is COM on the new one. I even tried switching them both w/ no luck.
You said earlier that you replaced the electronic control. Was it the AP6021414
Is it still installed or you removed it?
I attached the tech sheet for this oven so, you can check the schematic for proper connections.
Gene.
RBD275.pdf (517.1 KB)
That is what I originally replaced. It started giving me the F2-E6 error for about a month before going completely dark. That tech sheet looks right on the money. Thank you.
The new board has gone bad? Did I get it right?
Gene.
I’m stuck right now. I am reading (and re-reading) one of your older posts re: “shorting a DBL” (per the tech sheet). There you mention removing the red wire coming from the terminal block to the control board. I’m looking at this old control board as a reference and the DBL appears to be in a harness of spade connections (which was a bear to remove the first time). Am I looking at the right connector?
I think you are right. After removing that harness and checking continuity between both sister boards and the latch it tested at 1800 Ohms. I’m going to have to try and send this control board back and see if I can get the old one repaired.
Gene - on a wind and a prayer I installed the new Control Panel that arrived today. I connected it to the original latch and original sister board - started up - and NO errors!
My problem did not end though. I tried to set the cavity size based on the tech note but it will not allow me in. I did it upon start up, I waited for the lock cycle to finish, my wife and I even tried pushing all 8 buttons at once.
I figured I’d mess around w/ it after the kids went to bed and we went to make some nuggets for the kids and now the oven (upper and lower) won’t let you go above 350. I know it’s hot but the only thermometer I have on hand goes up to 200.
SIGH…Thoughts?
The size of your oven is 30". The control board comes preset for 30" and needs adjustments only if the oven is 27" wide.
I have no clue which buttons and in what sequence did you push trying to set the cavity size. This oven has a lot of different adjustments for display and temperature. I hope the Owners manual will help.
Gene.
P.S. There is a big difference between the control panel and the control board. It is very important to call them right.
This was a new panel. The old board and old panel are sitting next to me right now - as are a replacement latch and sister board that may need to go back to APP.
To recap - I originally replaced the control board. I then started getting a latch and a keypad error. I then got a replacement latch, sister board, and panel in that order.
After installing the latch and the sister board I was still getting F5/E1 and F2/E1 errors.
I re-installed the original latch and sister board when the new control panel arrived today just on a whim. It powered up w/ zero errors.
I’m not 100% convinced that the replacement board I have installed right now is working right since I can’t heat the oven past 350. All of the elements get hot (upper/lower bake and broil). It just won’t let me move the temp past 350 - I can go down but now above. I was hoping that it was an initialization problem w/ the new board/panel combination but I’m continuing to Google.
BTW…It is b/c of you and the APP team that I have made this my #1 stop for appliance issues. I have a water valve for the fridge from APP that should be here tomorrow - but that is a different project. Thanks again!