When tub needs to spin, the washer makes a loud “chattering” sound, but the tub doesn’t rotate

Washer Repair
1

Brand: LG
Model Number: WM2487HWMA
Main Symptom: won’t spin
What happens & when: When tub needs to spin, the washer makes a loud “chattering” sound like a machine gun, but the tub doesn’t rotate.

Error Code (if any): No code
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:

2

If your LG WM2487HWMA is making a loud roaring, grinding, or knocking noise during spin, then yes—the repair typically involves accessing the rear of the tub by removing the rotor assembly, stator assembly, and then inspecting the spider (spinner support) attached to the inner basket. The spider, stator, and rotor are all part of the drum/tub drive system on this model.

Common causes of spin noise on this model:

  • Broken or corroded spider assembly (very common on older LG front-load washers)

  • Failed rear tub bearings

  • Loose or damaged rotor

  • Failed rotor position sensor (RPS) in some cases

A quick check:

  1. Open the door and rotate the basket by hand.

  2. Lift up on the stainless basket.

  3. If the basket moves up and down significantly or scrapes the tub, the spider or bearings are likely damaged.

  4. To confirm, remove the rear cover, rotor, and stator for inspection.

Can you describe the sound (grinding, roaring, knocking, or scraping) and whether it occurs only during spin or all the time? That will help determine whether you’re looking at a spider failure, bearings, or a rotor/stator issue.

For the LG WM2487HWMA, removing the rotor, stator, and spider assembly is a major teardown because the spider is bolted to the inner basket and cannot be removed from the rear of the tub alone. The entire tub assembly must be split. The WM2487HM service manual (same platform as WM2487HWMA) contains the disassembly sequence.

1. Remove the Rotor

  1. Unplug the washer.

  2. Remove the rear access panel.

  3. Hold the rotor to keep it from turning.

  4. Remove the center rotor bolt (17 mm).

  5. Pull the rotor straight off the shaft. It is magnetic and may require some force. The rotor assembly on this model is part 4413ER1003B.

2. Remove the Stator

  1. Disconnect the stator wire harness and Hall sensor connector.

  2. Remove the six stator mounting bolts.

  3. Lift the stator off the rear tub.

  4. Remove the Hall sensor if needed. The stator and sensor are mounted directly to the rear tub.

3. Remove the Tub Assembly

To reach the spider:

  1. Remove the top cover.

  2. Remove the control panel and front panel.

  3. Remove the door boot from the front panel.

  4. Disconnect hoses, wiring, shocks, and suspension springs.

  5. Lift the entire tub assembly out of the cabinet.

4. Split the Tub

  1. Lay the tub assembly on a work surface.

  2. Remove the bolts around the perimeter of the tub.

  3. Separate the front tub half from the rear tub half.

  4. Pull the inner basket/drum out of the rear bearing.

5. Remove the Spider

  1. Turn the basket over.

  2. Remove the bolts securing the spider to the stainless basket.

  3. If the spider is heavily corroded, soak the bolts with penetrating oil and use heat if necessary.

  4. Replace the spider (part 4434ER0002H) and inspect the bearings and tub seal while apart.

Important

If you’re replacing a failed spider, I strongly recommend replacing:

  • Rear bearing

  • Front bearing

  • Tub seal (4036ER2004A)

A corroded spider often damages the bearings, and reusing old bearings frequently leads to another teardown later.

3

The problem was with the recirculating pump. Replaced that and the problem went away. Thanks, though, for the thoughtful post.