GE Adora Range JBP77SM1SS – Trouble shooting oven not consistently heating.
What part should I replace?
Initial Observations: Wife saw/heard sparks in oven. Thought it was oven light bulb. We smelled hot. Oven took over 30 minutes to get to 3250 on Bake cycle.
No error codes on Control Panel
Light Bulb-works
Stove top-works
Top Heating Element-heats, no apparent cracks, blisters
Bottom Heating Element–Enclosed, not inspected. Bottom pan felt hot in areas where element underlies.
Multimeter tests on back
3-wire Block
240 passed
120 right and left passed
Ohms reading on element connection was correct
Control Panel Oven Cycles
Convection Bake 1000at 10 minutes
Convection Roast 4000at 7 minutes
Bake 2300at 10 minutes
Broil glowed red within 6 minutes
Proof 1st time error said “HOT”
2nd time never got over 78 degrees with a meat probe. I think it was residual heat.
I replaced the thermostat. No change on the above observations.
If the compressor is operating and there is not a frost pattern on the evaporator, this would be a sealed system issue that would require an EPA-certified technician to repair it.
When the display showed the error HOT, which cooking cycle was being used? From what it sounds like, it seems like there is an issue with the convection bake element circuit. Testing the convection element for 240 Volts AC when the convection bake is selected can help identify if it is a cause of failure. If the element receives 240 Volts AC but does not heat, the convection element has failed. WB44T10053 Oven Convection Heating Element | Genuine Ge OEM In Stock
I did the oven cooking cycles tests on the display panel sequentially with cool downs between each cycle: (1) Convection Bake. (2) Convection Roast. (3) Bake. (4) Broil. (5) Proof.
When the display showed the error HOT, it was on the (5) Proof cycle. I completed the Broil cooking cycle and allowed the oven to cool for approximately 30 minutes. When I started Proof the display showed the error HOT. I let it cool for another 15 minutes before trying again. I think the heat (78 degrees) that registered on the temperature probe was left over from the Broil cycle. I never heard the convection fan kick in.
I think that the convection baking element must work because (1) Convection Bake cycle only reached 100 degrees at 10 minutes. (2) Convection Roast cycle reached 400 degrees within 7 minutes.
The (3) Bake and (4) Broil cycles also showed the same pattern. The upper element Broil was red within 6 minutes. The Bake cycle only reached 230 degrees at 10 minutes. It never has taken that long.
I did not pull the oven liner to access the bottom heating element.
QUESTION: Where do I access the convection baking element terminals for a multimeter test? I did not see any appropriately placed terminals when I removed the back. How do I do that if I have turned on Convection on the panel? Should I do both (Bake and Roast) since one Convection cycle works and the other does not.
Since the compressor is operating, if there is no frost pattern on the evaporator the issue would be with the sealed system. This would be the freon system which would require an EPA-certified technician to repair it.
When the back is removed, the convection bake element terminals will be located just above the convection fan motor. If they are not present, are there any wires hanging loose near the convection fan motor? Regarding the temperature shown on the display, the display should show 100 degrees during any cycle until the temperature exceeds the base 100 degrees. This lets me know that the convection element is not activating. The bake convection will be the cycle to use since the failure is occurring here. The voltage test helps to identify if voltage is even being sent out by the oven control. Along with that, the bake cycle taking so long to heat up could also indicate the bake element is not heating properly. This is something that could also be caused by a control board failure but it is good practice to test the affected sections if possible. If the convection element terminals are not apparent, and there is not a loose wire to be found, testing can be done from the main control but it does not verify if the wiring is good. This picture can be used to reference the test points for the oven cycles. The voltages should be on as soon as a cooking cycle is started. The voltages can turn off and then back on to cycle the heat and meet an average temperature to equal what the set temperature is, but that is usually after temperature has been reached. The only exception would be the bake cycle. The bake element and the broil element will alternate being on and off.
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