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Brand: Whirlpool
Model Number: WRV986FDEM00
Main Symptom: Water won’t stop pouring out.
What happens & when: woke up to refrigerator leaking water out of top ice maker then no water at all replaced all water inlets valves and now water pours out top and bottom ice makers and water dispenser wont stop. I have to unplug all valves to get them to turn off. Otherwise they will hum with the water off .
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
That’s probably going to be a bad control board WPW10675033 sending out voltage to at least one of the valves (I suspect the upper ice maker valve) all the time which has in turn damaged the diode pack built into wiring harness W11401475 in the machine compartment.
Before replacing the control board I would do some testing with a meter at the valves to make sure that board is the problem. This’ll be a fairly simple test. First, put the fridge in diagnostic mode, this cuts pretty much all outgoing voltage loads except the User Interface so you don’t need to go to a particular test #. Then, check for voltage on one of those connectors you unplugged from the valves, for simplicity’s sake I’d go with the upper ice maker valve connector which should have one tan wire and one white wire, but it wouldn’t be a bad idea to check all of them, just use the tech sheet to reference wire colors on the connectors. If you’ve got 110v or more while in diagnostic mode without having activated any tests then the relay on the control board has locked itself closed.
If that’s the case, replace the main control board. If not, hit me up on this thread for the next steps.
I’ve attached the tech sheet in case you need it to help with getting into diagnostic mode and making checks:
tech-sheet-W10772357-RevA.pdf (1.4 MB)
The reason I say that the wiring harness also needs to be replaced is because all the valves in this model share common wiring and that diode pack on the harness is supposed to make sure that only the valve being activated and the isolation valve are getting full voltage. Normally, when you are calling for water from 1 valve, it and the isolation valve will get about 120v AC and the others will get around 90v because the diode limits the direction of the voltage flow, when the diode fails it is no longer limiting that directional flow of voltage so now all valves are getting 120v.
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-cntrl-elec-wpw10675033-ap6023728.html
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-harns-wire-w11401475-ap6974151.html
I’m getting 120+ to the top ice maker while in diagnostic mode so sounds like the board. I see a board replacement video. Is there a video for replacing the harness? It’s a 10year fridge so trying to get an idea if it’s worth the repair.
There isn’t one for the harness, but once you get into the machine compartment down there by the compressor it is pretty simple. You’ll just be doing one to one swaps of the connectors and I think there are only like 6 or 7 connections.
Ah ok. I was thinking the harness ran through the whole fridge. Thanks for the help.
Is there any trick to getting this box open? I see one tab but it doesn’t release the whole cover.
Never mind. Plugs in before that in the sleeve.
