How do you remove the spin tube to replace the upper seals in the spin tube on a kenmore 110.27612600 washing machine? I dont think its a goos idea to take the drum off. Do you have to remove the drive block or will it simply remove from the bottom with the drum still in place?
On your Kenmore 110.27612600 (Whirlpool direct-drive washer), the inner basket must be removed. Unfortunately, there is no way to remove the spin tube (basket drive) from the bottom with the basket still installed. The drive block locks the basket to the spin tube, so it has to come off first.
Here’s the order of disassembly:
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Remove the cabinet.
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Remove the agitator.
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Remove the spanner nut (left-hand threads—turn clockwise to loosen).
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Lift out the inner basket.
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Remove the drive block (Whirlpool WP389140 Washer Drive Block | Genuine OEM Part) from the top of the spin tube. Sometimes it slides off easily, but on older machines it may require penetrating oil and gentle tapping because corrosion can lock it to the spin tube.
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Once the drive block is off, remove the transmission, clutch ( Whirlpool 285785 Washer Clutch Assembly | Genuine OEM Part ), and brake package from underneath.
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The spin tube (basket drive) can then be withdrawn downward, allowing replacement of the upper seals and center post seals.
Is it a good idea to remove the basket?
In my opinion, yes. It may seem like extra work, but trying to avoid removing the basket usually ends up taking longer. The basket isn’t particularly heavy, and once the spanner nut is off it generally lifts straight out. The real challenge is often getting the spanner nut and drive block loose if they’ve been in place for many years.
A few tips
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Soak the drive block with penetrating oil before attempting removal if there is rust.
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Use the proper spanner wrench for the tub nut if possible—it makes the job much easier.
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Inspect the drive block carefully. If the cut outs where the tangs on the drive tub are rounded or worn, replace it while you’re in there. They’re inexpensive and a worn drive block can cause spin issues.
If you’re replacing the upper spin tube seals because of an oil leak, I’d also inspect:
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The basket drive/brake assembly for wear.
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The clutch lining for oil contamination. Can cause slow or no spin.
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The center post bearings and seals.
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The transmission input seal if gear oil is present.
I’ve rebuilt quite a few of these direct-drive machines, and replacing the drive block & clutch during this repair is cheap insurance if there’s any sign of wear.