Brand: Viking range Model Number: vgcc530b Main Symptom: Oven won’t stay lit What happens & when: I turn on oven, hear the new igniter clicking, the burner lights up either partially or not at all then gas shuts off after about a second. Stove burners and broiler work fine. The oven though has been having increasingly more problems staying lit for about a year now.
Error Code (if any): na
Parts or tests already tried: Added new after market igniter. Took burner off, blew it out with canned air, sanded off parts that come in contact with oven floor. All flame holes appear to be clear. Although a few have slight signs of rust.
Photos / video link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rTDUEAp17tWXcBZ66
Based on the video, the DSI module for the oven is failing to operate properly. Does the model end in 4B? If not, could the production date or the serial number be provided? These are necessary for identifying the part number used with your appliance.
The bake and the broil burners operate on their own DSI control. If a relay is weak in the DSI control, it can cause a burner to quit. While it is possible that a bake solenoid has failed, it is a very miniscule chance and the spark igniter would immediately kick back on when the flame went out. This would be the DSI module used with your model. 018610-000 Sub To 036212-000 - Dsi230-2-L | Genuine Viking OEM In Stock
I do not know of a repair video, however, the cooktop section would need to be removed to access it. The grates and burner heads would need to be removed. There should be two screws holding each burner head onto the cooktop that would need to be removed. Once they are removed, the cooktop should lift up. The oven DSI module will be on the right side while the two cooktop DSI modules should be on the left.
Following your instructions, I took the eight screws out. But on our model there’s a lip all the way around, preventing the stove burner top from lifting up.
I thought maybe there might be enough play so that I could shove the stove top back, or pull it forward. But no luck.
So there must be another way to gain access to the DSI module. I just can’t find it anywhere online.
It is likely that the top panel is being held up by the console. With the power supply turned off, remove the knobs and the bezels from the burner valves. With the screws removed from the console, it should lift slightly up and pull free. There may be screws along the bottom trim under the console that may need to be removed as well. With the console section removed, it should make it easier to get the cooktop out.
OK, I’ve got the front knob-console off. And I took the front screws out of the “side trim pieces,” that were preventing the top burner plate from lifting up. But I STILL can’t gain access to the DSI module.
Am I going to have to pull the range out from the wall and take the entire top-panel of the back off as well? Just to be able to take the side trim pieces completely off? (Jeez Viking!)
The modules should be under the cooktop unless they are just under a second access panel under the cooktop. Could you provide a picture of what you are seeing?
Sorry it’s grungy under there. But that is the left trim piece that, along with one on the right, is preventing the top from lifting up
Below is the back of the left trim. It’s looking like I would have to take that whole back piece off just to get to the rear screws of both side trim pieces.
And below you can see the front panel is off., but again, without those side trim pieces off, the top won’t lift up or slide out.
*I’m using a piece of duct tape to keep the front panel from stretching a wire.
It looks like the burner heads are still on the cooktop. They slide down into the orifice holders and would need to be removed so that the cooktop panel can be moved.
The burner heads lift off, and can be unplugged. That’s no problem. It’s the side trim pieces that overlap the edge of the burner top and keep it pinned down.
