there an intermittency. it’ll work once. Then next time shut off. Reset and it’ll be fine. Then won’t pass 40s, then will.
could that be caused by anything else after the 2vDC or am I still probably dealing with a loose Molex?
It’s very possible that the loose molex caused some issues within the relay control. Are there any error codes that come up?
only F34. But … tried again this am. Shut off @40s.
Just for s&g’s, I decided to flip the breaker. Came right back.
Starting to think this was a combination of loose Molex and perhaps a bad breaker.
Look at the breaker later. I think the breaker may be as old as the oven, 20, if not more.
Can you tell me which version Molex connector/terminals are? I assume micro-latch or milli-grid?
I don’t suppose you have the schematic for the relay board that you could forward?
JIC.
Unfortunately, the manufacturer does not provide Micom schematics for the control boards nor which specific type of molex connector is used.
Darn the Luck ! ! ! Whats Micom?
It references the internal ribbons, resistors, capacitors, diodes, relays, and other small components and pathways in a control board.
Is Micom an organization or a term?
Is it this ?
Model for Integrated Circuit Operations Management
It is Model for Integrated Circuit Operations Management. The Micom schematic would be the full circuit breakdown of the integrated circuits and components of the control board itself.
Thanks, new term to me.
it appears the issue was/is the panel breaker as well as the Molex pin seating.
I unmounted the breaker to check for any rust or visible oxidation on the buss bar or breaker clips and terminal screws, as the basement isn’t exactly the least humid place & dust free in the house. Then I loosened the terminal screws a half turn and tightened them back up a full turn. Haven’t had any issues for 9 days.
The breaker is at least as old as the oven install, 20. So I may replace the breaker just cause.