Brand: Fridigaire Model Number: FFTR2021TS5 Main Symptom: Bottom fridge isn’t cold enough despite temperature adjustments What happens & when:
This is a top freezer/bottom Frigidaire combo. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed the fridge being warmer than usual but just didn’t have time to immediately deal with it.
After some googling, I pulled off the back wall to the freezer and saw that that the air channel/air divertor leading from the cooling system to the fridge below was stuffed with ice. I got rid ice blockage which created the space for cold air to travel down and was hoping this would be the ultimate fix. After re-installing the back wall and putting everything back into the freezer, I felt the center vent in the fridge where air is supposed to travel down and escape through the vents but the air flow wasn’t nearly as significant as I hoped. I closed the fridge for a day to hope time would allow cold air would gather. The fridge was/is colder but not to the degree I thought it would be, especially since I adjusted the temperature colder than the “recommended” setting.
Today (about one week after trouble shooting), I noticed the fridge warmer yet again. Removing the back wall to the freezer, the air divertor was once again blocked with ice. However one difference is the cooling fins had ice on them whereas last week they did not. I don’t know if this means anything.
So, the freezer definitely works fine - All the food is still frozen, I can hear the motor run and there is still an audible sound when I open the freezer door. Can anyone please give advice on what might be happening here? What do you think I need to replace? Do I need to check anther area of the fridge for a blockage? Do you see anything concerning from the pictures of the back wall I posted? This fridge was just over $500 and I am hoping to avoid spending 1/3rd of the cost or more to call someone out to repair it.
If you are reading, thank you for at least considering helping me.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link: My Gallery — Postimages
Based on what you’ve described, I don’t think the ice blockage is the root problem—it’s a symptom of something else going on.
Since the freezer is maintaining temperature, the sealed system and compressor are likely doing their job. The fact that the air passage to the refrigerator keeps freezing shut tells us moisture is repeatedly getting into that air duct and freezing.
The most likely possibilities are:
A defrost system problem (most common)
A blocked or partially blocked defrost drain
Warm air leaking into the freezer through a bad door seal or door that isn’t sealing properly
The frost you saw forming on the evaporator this second time is an important clue. A healthy evaporator should have a light, even coating of frost across nearly the entire coil. If it’s becoming packed with ice over several days, the automatic defrost system may not be melting the frost as it should.
First thing I’d check
With the evaporator cover removed, look closely at the evaporator coil.
Even light frost across the entire coil: The defrost system is probably working, and I’d look more closely at the drain, airflow, or an air leak.
Heavy snow/ice covering the entire coil: Strong indication of a defrost system failure.
Only one small section frosted while the rest is warm: This points more toward a sealed system problem, although that’s less likely since your freezer is still freezing well.
Check the defrost drain
Since the ice is repeatedly blocking the air duct, there’s also a good chance the defrost drain is partially restricted.
During each defrost cycle, the melted frost should flow through the drain hole beneath the evaporator and into the drain pan underneath the refrigerator. If that drain is clogged with debris or ice, the water has nowhere to go. It can refreeze around the evaporator and air duct, eventually blocking the passage of cold air to the refrigerator compartment.
With the evaporator cover removed:
Locate the drain hole beneath the evaporator coil.
If it’s covered with ice, melt the ice using hot water or a hair dryer on a low setting.
Flush the drain with hot water using a turkey baster or squeeze bottle. The water should flow freely into the drain pan underneath the refrigerator.
If it doesn’t, continue flushing until the blockage clears. A flexible plastic tubing or zip tie can also be used to gently clear the drain—avoid using anything metal that could damage the drain tube.
Check the evaporator fan
Leave the freezer door open and press in the door switch.
The evaporator fan should start after a few seconds, and you should feel a strong stream of cold air coming from the air duct leading to the refrigerator.
If the fan is weak, noisy, or not running, the refrigerator section won’t receive enough cold air even though the freezer stays frozen.
If the fan runs strongly, airflow itself is probably not the primary issue.
Check the air damper
Make sure the air damper between the freezer and fresh food compartment isn’t stuck with ice or mechanically jammed. Since you’ve already cleared it once and it froze again, something is causing moisture to build back up.
Check for warm air leaks
Inspect the freezer door gasket all the way around for gaps, tears, or areas where it isn’t sealing tightly. A small air leak can introduce enough moisture to continually create frost and ice.
If the evaporator is heavily iced over
The next components to test would be:
Defrost heater
Defrost thermostat (or thermistor, depending on the production version)
Main control board (which controls the automatic defrost cycle)
A couple of questions that will help narrow it down:
Was the evaporator coil itself completely covered in frost, or was the ice mainly around the air duct and drain area?
Can you hear the evaporator fan running when you press and hold the freezer door switch?
Do you know the actual temperatures in both the freezer and refrigerator compartments using a thermometer?
Two days ago, my new defrost timer arrived. I wasn’t aware if this was actually the problem but given all the Google searches I was performing, people in similar situations said this was the most common culprit so I took the chance and changed it out. Unfortunately, a new defrost timer didn’t help me. My multimeter arrived today and I checked the functionality of my old defrost timer and it was good. So, that was a waste.
I removed the back cover to the freezer again. The damper channel between the freezer and fridge below was again blocked with ice. I dislodged all the ice blocking air flow. I was trying to follow more YouTube videos to check other components with a multimeter like the thermistor but I was unsure on how to properly remove it from the back freezer. I wanted to make sure I was even checking the correct component.
I opened the back cover behind the fridge. Although I saw dust build up around the fan, the back area was largely clean with no ice buildup.
I do not the actual temperatures of each freezer and fridge. I just know that my ice cream stays solid, but the fridge is definitely warmer than it should be.
you may have a clogged defrost drain tube. It is a hole in that silver tray under the freezer coils. On yours it is in that slot directly behind the air passage to the refrigerator. That hole connects to a tube that drains the water that comes from the defroster melting the frost build up on the coils. If it that hole or tube is blocked the water builds up and refreezes, getting thicker on every cycle. Eventually it overflows that tray and and can clog that passage and build up around the coils blocking proper air flow.
Try pouring a little water in that tray and see if it drains and let me know
Below are the pictures of the top freezer after the back panel has been removed. As you can see that after a day, there is a bit of frost buildup on top fins and pipes. The damper and drainage holes are largely unobstructed but I did pour hot water down both of them. I tried to look at the drainage pan where the water should be going but couldn’t find any indication that it was settling anywhere. I pulled off the front kick cover to see a pan in the right but it was still very dry. The area behind the fridge, where the compressor is, was dry as well.
Since I had my multimeter out and just figured I would guess test whatever wires I conveniently saw before I put the back panel back. I unplugged the evaporator fan, matching red with red and black with black on the multimeter and got no signal, just OL. Then I tested the back wires where the fan plugs into and received a reading above 6 ohms. So for the moment, I’m assuming the evaporator fan is my only problem(?) I hope it 's not something else like the thermistor.
