Can select various cycles, but after starting, dishwasher reverts to rinse only. It runs the rinse cycle and stops without opening the soap tray. Would a loose wire do this or are we likely into a control board? Can you point me to disassembly and replacement instructions? Is there anything I should look at before ordering a control board? … Additionally, the dishwasher sits with its rinse only blinking. Power cycling it allows selection of other cycles, but shortly after starting it returns to display of rinse only light. Without power cycle, we cannot get it to light any other buttons. Could there be a short from leaning against the panel?
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDBH955AWB | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is a service manual and a tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16021814.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16026393.pdf
[COLOR=Blue]Would a loose wire do this or are we likely into a control board?[/COLOR]
More likely a stuck key but I am not 100% sure on this
[COLOR=Blue]Can you point me to disassembly and replacement instructions?[/COLOR]
See above links
[COLOR=Blue]Is there anything I should look at before ordering a control board?[/COLOR]
With electronic parts usually if you order it you own it so is best to troubleshoot as far as possible.
Try running the diagnostics.
Sometimes just running them will clear an error.
Check the keypad pin outs (ribbon cable) with a meter (see tech sheet).
This is the normal way to troubleshoot these types of problems. If the keypad checks out OK then it is probably the control board that is shot. It is still a bit of a crap shoot but improves your odds of getting the correct part.
Try cleaning the connectors (see below)
[COLOR=Blue]Could there be a short from leaning against the panel?[/COLOR]
Pushing very hard on a switch could collapse it causing a problem but this is unlikely.
[U][COLOR=Red]Connector Cleaning[/COLOR][/U]
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.
[COLOR=Red]Meter[/COLOR]
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.