Speed Queen Washer leaks after installing bearing kit (766P3A): Model AWN542SP111TW01

Appliance Parts
1

Customer service advised that I should post my question here instead of sending me another kit or issue a full refund.

I have a speed queen washer that needed a new bearing. There was a very loud noise, like a jet engine or freight train whenever it was in its spin cycle. I had purchased a full kit for the out tub bearing replacement. Everything was installed to the instructions provided, and the noise went away, unfortunately there is a leak. This happened twice now and I would like to request another kit or have a full refund of the entire order placed.

What I think is now happening, is the the hub and lip seal metal sleeve/shroud is moving within the lip seal enough to where water is still getting through the lip seal. The directions indicate that you need to apply the Loctite 680 to the outer hub flange with a small continuous bead to bond to the metal sleeve/shroud that seats within the lip seal. This has been done twice with the two kits provided and it still leaks. I think the lip seals are a bad batch. I ensure that the hub surfaces are cleaned with rubbing alcohol and there is no debris on the surfaces when setting the hub on the lip seal. I also make sure there is 1.8 mm exposure of the metal Shourd prior to setting the hub down. Too much loctite will bind the hub to the lip seal itself, and too little will cause a leak. I am all out of ideas as to what it can be and very disappointed and exhausted in these parts.

I have to take apart the entire machine to do this work and the hub piece of it is critical. Please send another kit or issue a full refund of the entire order please.

2

Hi Speedking, when you bought the kit, did it include the hub and seal kit and the outer tub gasket? Also, can you check to see if the accumulator is leaking?

3

It was the full kit that included the upper bearing that mounts to the bottom of the lower tub, with hub, and lip seal. The kit number is on the thread. 766P3A.

There was no outter tub gasket in the kit nor required by the instructions.

What is the accumulator? I don’t believe this model has that.

4
  1. Lip seal lifted because of trapped air. If air wasn’t bled from beneath the seal during installation, the seal can initially look seated and then creep upward. A seal that has risen even slightly can produce a substantial leak.
  2. Incomplete sealant bead or insufficient cure. Any gap/void around the seal gives water a direct leak path. Running the machine before the specified cure period can also compromise the repair. If diagnosing it now, inspect for places where the sealant has separated, cracked, or never bonded continuously.
  3. Transmission tube/shaft sealing surface damage. Rust, pitting, grooves, burrs, or scratches where the lip actually rides can defeat a brand-new seal. If you can catch the damage with a fingernail, replacing the seal again without addressing that surface may simply reproduce the leak.

One useful clue is where the water first appears. If it originates right at the center around the transmission tube, I’d strongly suspect the lip seal/sealing surface. If it emerges around the outside perimeter of the installed seal, I’d focus on seal seating and the polyurethane bead. https://youtu.be/MXr8VGC1tjk?si=qXGAD9OWS1Trmqyu Yes. “Pressure switch accumulator,” “air dome,” “air chamber,” and sometimes “pressure chamber” can refer to that part of the washer’s water-level sensing system.

Its job is to trap/compress air as the tub fills. That increasing air pressure travels through the small hose to the water-level pressure switch, allowing the washer to determine the water level. Service documentation confirms the air-dome hose connects the pressure switch to an air dome at the outer tub/sump area.

That component is particularly relevant after tub work because:

  • A cracked air dome/accumulator or its tub connection can leak water directly.
  • A loose, split, pinched, or disconnected pressure hose can prevent the pressure switch from sensing the level correctly.
  • Debris or water trapped in the chamber/hose can interfere with pressure sensing.
  • If the leak you’re chasing appears specifically from that little chamber/fitting on the side or lower portion of the outer tub, that’s a different leak path from the center lip seal.

So if you’ve found water around the accumulator, I would dry everything completely and run a controlled fill while watching that exact area. If water first forms at the accumulator/tub joint rather than running down onto it from above, you’ve isolated a much more likely source than the transmission lip seal.

5
  1. I had bled out the air in four different places of the outer lip seal and even watched the video during both of my kit installation attempts. There was no trapped air or hissing noise.
  2. On both occasions I waited 24 hours. I have photos to prove that sufficient 3M poly sealant was used and rubbed half ways up the lip seal wall.
  3. The surface was smooth. Only rust around where the spline is reinstalled.
  4. Water started leaking from the inner bearing and shaft connection point, then water started leaking outward towards the outside wall of the bearing. I believe the leak progressed. These bearings rust and cease up very quick.
  5. I saw that same video many times that you posted.
  6. No leaks around the accumulator. It’s all around the bearing.
  7. I believe the metal shroud/sleeve inside the lip seal that connects to the hub flange with the Loctite 680, moves and causes enough play and gapping that water starts to leak.
6

Hi SpeedKing, I’m sorry for the frustration and disappointment. Unfortunately, we’re unable to issue a refund. However, we can submit the part under warranty and ship you a replacement.

7

Based on your description and how the leak has progressed, it sounds like you’ve narrowed it down to a very specific failure point. If the Speed Queen is leaking directly down the shaft-to-bearing connection and bypassing the outer lip seal, the issue is most likely with the watertight bond between the hub/sleeve assembly and the transmission shaft.

The metal sleeve inside the lip seal needs to be completely secured to the shaft and hub flange using Loctite 680. If that bond fails, the sleeve can shift slightly or move up and down during agitation and spinning. Even a very small amount of movement can create a gap that allows water to travel down the shaft and into the upper bearing. Once that happens, the water washes out the factory grease, which can quickly lead to rust and eventually cause the bearing to seize.

A few things I would check:

1. Loctite 680 bond

Surface preparation is extremely important with Loctite 680. If there was any rust, moisture, grease, or other contamination on the shaft or inside the hub when it was installed, the Loctite may not have bonded properly.

Since you mentioned rust around the spline area, that would be one of the first things I’d look at. The shaft and inside of the sleeve need to be thoroughly cleaned and degreased before applying the retaining compound.

Rubbing alcohol does a good job of removing grease, but depending on the product and how it’s used, moisture or residue can remain on the surface. That can interfere with getting the clean, dry metal surface needed for a strong Loctite 680 bond. For a connection under this much stress, I’d use a proper zero-residue cleaner that’s compatible with the parts and follow Loctite’s surface-preparation instructions. The metal should be completely clean and dry before applying the 680.

Loctite 680 also needs enough time to fully cure. Depending on the metals involved, an appropriate Loctite activator or primer may also help with curing.

2. Shaft wear or pitting

If the machine had a bad leak before, there’s also a chance the transmission shaft itself has become worn or pitted from rust.

Loctite 680 can only compensate for so much space between the shaft and sleeve. If the shaft has worn down or the rust has caused enough pitting, there may be too much of a gap for the Loctite to hold properly. That could allow the sleeve to start moving again.

3. Movement during the spin cycle

I’d also check for any excessive movement or play in the assembly. During the spin cycle, especially with an unbalanced load, there’s a lot of force on these parts. If the hub flange isn’t completely seated or there’s play in the transmission, that movement could break the Loctite bond and cause the leak to come back.

With the water traveling directly down the shaft and the amount of rust you’re seeing, I would definitely inspect the shaft, sleeve, hub, and bearing area closely. That should help determine whether the Loctite bond itself failed or if there’s wear or movement causing it to keep failing.

8

What you, or AI, are asking is for the entire hub to be removed again, cleaned and re-applied. Removing the hub can be damaged the hub and warp the internal splines.

To remove the Loctite seems a bit unreasonable, as the Loctite essentially fuses the hub to the inner metal shroud sleeve within the lip seal. It’s one piece now and if I pry them apart, they may be damaged. No tool will be able to separate them.

Even if there was a way to separate them, I’d have to grind off the Loctite 680, which can mare or deform the inner metal shroud sleeve or hub flange.

I would then be reinstalling the same parts with the heightened risk of a leak again. I need all new parts (new kit), or 100% refund of my entire original order as the lower transmission bearing may also affected and I am just about out of the 3M 530 polyseal.

The transmission shaft was not damaged when I examined it, but I run the risk of it being damage if I am removing the hub and reinstalling it over and over again. Unless you guys can provide a new transmission shaft with the kit to ensure no leaks can happen.

If water can washing out the grease of the outer tub bearing like you mentioned, then it’s also washing the red grease in the lip seal between the metal shroud as well, which would dry out the lip seal and cause more issues down the road.

You are asking me to reuse parts that can or already are damaged and the lip seal which may already be dried out.

If I put too much Loctite 680 around the hub and reinstall it, some of the Loctite can spill over in the top of the lip seal and cease/fuse to the lip seal as one piece. This can damage the motor or atleast cause me to buy yet another belt.

9

Hi Speed King, sorry to hear that. At this point, you will need to call in and speak with Customer Service to discuss your options further. You can reach them at 1-877-477-7278. Alternatively, you can contact an experienced service technician to diagnose the issue and finish repairing your washer. I hope everything works out for you and you’re able to get your washer back up and running soon.