The anti flood switch was stuck. In an attempt to make double sure that was the problem :
There was small spark and then everything stopped. Before this there was no fill (due to the anti flood switch being stuck), but the rest of the cycles were working normally. Now nothing…
Is there any fuse that needs to be checked/replaced:confused:
Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Check that you have power to the unit.
Try removing power from it for 15 minutes or so to see if it will come back/reset.
I do not see a fuse listed for this unit
Remove the inner door cover and check the control board
Unfortunately the fastest fuse in the world is a solid state device, you may have blown the control board.
Reset the braker and there is power to the unit. Then replaced the float switch which was broken. Still does not work. Replacing the control panel made no difference. What else can it be???
We don’t think that it is Water valve problem, because when the electrical inputs to the water valve are disconnected, a voltmeter connected to the input wires shows no voltage coming to the water valve during the fill cycle. What can we check next??
Can it be the Transorb kit? I don’t see one listed in the parts list, but I think there is one in this dishwasher.
How do I go about getting the wiing diagrams for this model
Thanks
Here are your parts as you can see you are missing some digits from the Model Number.
Model Search
[COLOR=Blue]
Replacing the control panel made no difference. [/COLOR]
Did you replace the control panel (keyboard) or the control board (Module control asm)?
[COLOR=Blue]What else can it be??? [/COLOR]
If you replaced the control board then I am stumped
[COLOR=Blue]We don’t think that it is Water valve problem, because when the electrical inputs to the water valve are disconnected, a voltmeter connected to the input wires shows no voltage coming to the water valve during the fill cycle. What can we check next??[/COLOR]
If you replaced the control board then all I can think of is the wires going up to the control board or between the components. Usually the circuit for the water valve is Circuit Board , Water valve , Overfill switch , Circuit Board. But I cannot guarantee this. Only way to tell is to physically trace the wires
[COLOR=Blue]Can it be the Transorb kit? [/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not know what you mean
[COLOR=Blue]How do I go about getting the wiing diagrams for this model[/COLOR]
Usually the wiring diagram is under the machine behind the kick plate.
May be taped to the units body or the kick plate itself.
Trying to find a GE wiring diagram online is difficult.
You could contact GE, of coarse they will want money
Thank you for your help.
The model is PDW7880G00SS
We replaced the control board (Module control asm) and not the panel.
The Transorb is a part in the harness at the water valve assembly.
Could not find it on this site, went to the GE site and could not find it there.
Did a google search and it came up as a surge protector.
I guess you do learn something every day, never heard them called that in over 30 years.
It could be your problem.
Without a wiring diagram I am in the dark on this.
Looks like it could be anything from a couple zener diodes to a small device with a number of components perhaps even a fuse.
Also it looks like some of them will force a high current flow and cause the breaker to trip but you have already checked that the unit is getting 120 volts.
I would check to see if you have power on the other side of the transorb.
Sorry that I cannot be of much help but have to guess at this.
Here are a couple links with some info
Major Appliances: Dishwasher Make & Model, dish washer, transorb
http://www.fixya.com/support/t320714-no_water_entering
Do a google using “ge transorb” you may get more info.
If you can get the schematic and trace the wires to the control board, you might find you shorted the wire from the water level switch to power ground.
I have done similar misstakes, so don’t feel too bad!
The breaker was tripped initally, but we reset it. I got the wiring diagram today and sure enough there is a transorb/surge protector in parallel to the watervalve. This is not shown in the usual Dishwasher repair books. Next, we plan to check if we have power on the other side of the transorb. I suspect that we do. If so, we would have to get that part and replace it.
This “transorb” is a movistor that shunts voltage spikes away from the water solenoid. Sort of rare they fail short without blowing out, but it’s possible.
I see that this string is a year old, but I just experienced a similar problem with my GE Profile Dishwasher PDW7880G00SS. It seemed to be a problem with the water valve. The schematics are missing from the dishwasher, and GE does not see fit to provide them online.
On closer inspection, the float switch was open and the wires connected to the water valve indicated a short. I removed the wires and checked the valve, which now indicated about 1k ohm. Rechecked the wires, which indicated a dead short. This appears to be the “Transorb” that was mentioned. After taking apart the Float switch, it appears to be completely destroyed. The float switch indicates that it is rated for 3 amperes…seems like a bad design.
The average cost of a new float switch is between $40-$70. Not sure about the Transorb, or what else may be damaged.
So…
I have replaced the water inlet valve, the flood switch, and the control board. I have no water, still.
The flood switch was working fine when first installed, but it appears to be destroyed, now. The swingarm is stuck down and it is open.
So I will replace the floodswitch-again-and I guess I’ll replace the transorb-judging by the pic here: http://www.********************************.com/part-number/WD35X10025/0022/363.html it’s what I would have called a “fusible link” in the automotive industry.
Sound like a good approach? Hopefully I can find a schematic somewhere…