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Brand:Samsung Model Number:WF457ARGSGR/A2 Main Symptom:Doesn’t start or shut off What happens & when:can change options and cycles but start does nothing and stop just chimes and then goes to SAMSUNG screen. Also door was locked but manually opened.
Error Code (if any):none
Parts or tests already tried:hard power reset multiple times. manually drained water. manually opened door.
Photos / video link:
I am guessing it is the 'main control board" part DC92-01032A. I know there is another control board listed and control board assembly DC92-01040A.
Is the main control board the right one for my washer and is it likely the problem?
I would not order DC92-01032A yet. On this washer, that board is part of the control-panel/UI assembly, while DC92-01040A is the actual main control board mounted in the cabinet. Both are listed for WF457ARGSGR/A2-00. Parts Dr
Your symptoms actually make me lean toward the control-panel side, DC92-01032A, rather than immediately blaming the main board. The washer powers up, the display works, and you can change cycles/options, but Start/Pause isn’t being accepted and Power/Stop behaves strangely. That suggests the washer is alive but isn’t properly receiving or processing those button commands.
Before buying either board, I would do one simple check: close the door and press Start while listening closely at the door lock.
Absolutely nothing happens—no click from the lock: I would concentrate on the UI/control panel and its connections first. DC92-01032A is the control board in that panel. Parts Dr
Door lock clicks or tries to lock: then the Start command is getting through, and I’d move toward checking the door-lock circuit and main board before replacing the UI.
Since you manually released the door, make sure the door latch itself is now fully reset and the door is closing normally. Samsung specifically lists a firmly closed door and Child Lock as things to check when this model won’t start. Samsung Manuals
So between the two parts you mentioned: DC92-01032A = control-panel/UI board; DC92-01040A = main machine control board.Parts Dr
Based on what it’s doing, I would check DC92-01032A and its connections first rather than replacing DC92-01040A on a guess. If you want, I can also give you the quick diagnostic/service-mode test for the Start button and door lock on this model before you order anything.
Yes, WF457ARGSGR/A2 is the model number. You do not need to add “00” to the end if it isn’t on your model tag.
And you’re correct about the terminology—DC92-01032A is commonly listed as the main control board, so calling it that is perfectly reasonable.
Since you closed the door and pressed Start and got absolutely no sound or attempt to lock, I’d still put the door-lock circuit or main control board at the top of the list. Before ordering the board, though, I’d run diagnostics because it may give us another clue.
Diagnostic/service mode
With the washer powered on but not running a cycle:
Press and hold Spin + Soil Level together for about 3 seconds.
The display should change to indicate you’ve entered the test/service mode.
Once you’re in, use the controls to step through the available tests.
Pay particular attention to the door-lock test. When commanded, you should hear the lock click and the door should lock.
Also check for any stored error codes.
If the washer will not command the door lock in diagnostics either, that narrows things down considerably.
Before replacing DC92-01032A, I would make one additional check: inspect the wiring and connector between the main board and the door-lock assembly. Look for a loose connector, backed-out terminal, corrosion, or damaged wire.
If that wiring looks good and the lock never receives a command from the board, then DC92-01032A becomes a very reasonable suspect. If the board is sending power to the lock but the lock does nothing, then the door-lock assembly would be the problem instead.
So I wouldn’t order the board solely because Start does nothing just yet. Run the diagnostic/door-lock test first, and we can use what happens there to separate the lock from the main board.
I cannot get into service mode. It picks one or the other to go to. Tried in various was to get both selected and it does nothing. Also after about twenty or so attempts, the menu no longer responds at all with a change, just a noise (like a keyboard does when no longer accepting input).
I had thought that the way the power off is acting would likely eliminate it just being a door lock issue.
Yes. Since DC92-01032A has now been replaced and the symptoms are exactly unchanged, I would stop replacing boards for the moment. That result moves the door-lock circuit and the other control-panel/LCD board much higher on the list.
The service information for this WF457 series specifically says a no-start condition should be diagnosed by checking the door-lock switch and its control-board circuit. It also gives a very useful dividing test: when the washer is commanded to lock, 120 VAC at the door-lock coil means replace the door-lock switch; no 120 VAC means work backward through the wiring/control circuit.ManualsLib
In your case, I’d do this next:
Unplug the washer and check the door-lock assembly and its harness. Make sure the plug is fully seated and inspect the wires back toward the control for a broken wire or backed-out terminal. Since you previously had to manually release the door, pay particular attention to the lock itself.
Plug it back in, select a cycle and press Start/Pause. We already know you’re getting no click whatsoever from the lock. If you’re comfortable doing a live-voltage test, check whether the door-lock coil receives approximately 120 VAC when Start is pressed. This is the test Samsung specifies. ManualsLib
If you get ~120 VAC but the lock doesn’t operate → replace the door-lock assembly.
If you get 0 VAC → don’t replace the lock yet. Check continuity of the lock wiring back to the controls. If the harness is good, then we’re looking at the control side.
There is one other important piece here that we didn’t give enough weight to earlier: this washer actually has multiple electronic boards. Parts documentation shows DC92-01032A plus DC92-01100A, the LCD/control electronics. iFixit Your earlier symptom where the touchscreen eventually stopped accepting selections and only beeped, combined with the strange shutdown/SAMSUNG-screen behavior, keeps DC92-01100A or communication between the boards in play.
So I wouldn’t buy DC92-01100A yet. The quickest next move is the door-lock voltage test. Tell me what voltage you get at the lock when you press Start, and we should be able to narrow this down considerably without another guess.
Thank you but from what I can tell the door lock coil is not the easiest of parts to get to. I don’t have a diagram so I’m not sure. The manual unlock that I did was mostly by feel and a long screwdriver. Regardless, it doesn’t seem that even if the door was locking, the panel should not perform the way that it does when powering off. I can see that it would need to check door lock condition to start a cycle but not to power off. Does the Samsung guide indicate otherwise.
It would seem that things are pointing toward dc92-01100a. That part is just too expensive and getting way to close to the cost of a new washer.
If you still think the door lock would explain the power off issue, can you provide a diagram or something that might enable me to check it?
Thank you!
OK, crazy but I found somebody with the same washer that let me use their dc92-01100a board to try in mine. It made no difference! Same symptoms. Any help with other tests I can do that would explain the power off issue and the maximum number of changes in the menu before not allowing changes?
Continuing the conversation. I have replaced all three boards and it has seemed to have zero effect. However, I have discovered by pure chance that if I start from a fresh start and open the delayed start setting and hit cancel, it will start and operate normally. When checking those symptoms I find an indication back to the “032” board, but that has been replaced. The directions that I find in the manual do not match the menu displayed. The delayed start is on time rather than delay number of hours. Following direction to turn off wi-fi does not reset it back to delay by hours. Unplugging does nothing. I cannot get to the 17 hr delay to enter the diagnostics for the delayed start. It seems that the only somewhat reasonable part that I have not replaced is the door latch mechanism, but that seems a stretch for these symptoms. Thoughts? Help please.
That new Delay Start → Cancel → washer suddenly starts normally clue changes the diagnosis quite a bit. Since you’ve now replaced all three boards with essentially zero change, I would stop buying control boards. The fact that the washer can complete a normal cycle once you get it past this strange startup state also tells us the motor, drain system, and most of the basic machine-control functions are capable of working.
The door latch is now worth testing, but I agree with you: I would not simply order one based on these symptoms. A completely bad latch normally causes a much more straightforward “won’t lock/won’t start” condition. What could fit, however, is an intermittent door-closed/lock feedback signal. The controls may be sitting in an invalid state until entering and canceling Delay Start forces the software to reevaluate the door/start conditions.
Here’s the test I’d do next
Start with the machine in its normal failed condition — before doing your Delay Start/Cancel trick.
Close the door and press Start. Listen closely at the latch. Earlier you reported no click and seemingly no attempt to lock, which is important.
If you have your multimeter available, check whether the latch receives its lock command when Start is pressed:
Voltage is sent to the latch but it doesn’t lock: I’d move strongly toward the door-lock/latch assembly.
No voltage is sent to the latch: don’t replace the latch yet. We need to determine why the control isn’t issuing the command — especially since changing the boards didn’t alter anything.
Then perform your Delay Start → Cancel workaround and repeat the same measurement. If the lock voltage suddenly appears, that’s an excellent diagnostic clue.
I’d also inspect the entire latch harness, especially the connector at the latch and where that harness returns to the control. A loose terminal, pushed-back pin, partially broken wire, or poor door-closed feedback connection could survive three board replacements and produce exactly the same symptoms.
The other thing that stands out is your description of Delay Start showing an actual time rather than a number of delay hours. I would not force the manual’s “17-hour” diagnostic procedure if the menus on your machine don’t match it. That suggests the service information you’re following may apply to a different software/UI revision of this WF457 platform. The Wi-Fi instructions not behaving as described reinforces that possibility.
At this point, I think the most valuable test is actually very simple: compare the door-lock circuit before and after doing the Delay Start/Cancel workaround. That gives us an A/B test on the exact same machine without changing any parts.
If you can tell me what the latch does in those two situations—normal failed start versus after Delay Start/Cancel—I can help you narrow it down further and tell you exactly which latch wires to meter.
There is still no indication of a click without cancelling the delayed start. When I check for voltage, is that at the wire harness when it is removed from the door latch? Understanding the door will be open when that is tested. Thanks.
Yes—but I’d change the test slightly so we know exactly what the board is doing.
On the WF457ARGSGR/A2, Samsung specifies the door-lock output as 120 VAC when the control is commanding the door to lock. The technical sheet identifies the board-side test as CN6 pin 1 to RY5 pin 2. ManualsDir
If you test at the door-latch harness, I would not simply unplug the latch and probe random terminals with the door open. Ideally, back-probe the lock connector while it remains connected. That keeps the latch and door-status circuits in their normal condition. Set the meter to AC volts, close the door, start a normal cycle, and watch for approximately 120 VAC when it should click and lock.
The result is very useful:
About 120 VAC reaches the lock, but there is no click/lock: the door-latch/lock assembly is bad.
No 120 VAC until you do your Delay Start → Cancel trick: that strongly points away from the latch itself. The control is simply not sending the lock command under normal startup.
120 VAC appears only after Cancel and then the latch clicks: that would be especially important given everything you’ve already replaced. It would tell us the latch is capable of operating and the problem is in the control/logic sequence rather than a mechanically failed latch.
Samsung’s own troubleshooting procedure follows essentially the same logic: check the door-lock coil output; 120 V with no lock → replace the lock; no 120 V → troubleshoot the PCB/control circuit. ManualsLib
Since your machine has this unusual behavior where canceling Delay Start suddenly allows it to operate normally, I’d do two voltage checks: once when you press Start normally and it refuses to start, and again immediately after doing the Delay Start/Cancel procedure that makes it work. That A/B comparison may finally pin this down.
Be careful here—the measurement is live 120 VAC, so keep the probes secured before initiating the test and avoid touching the connector terminals while powered.
Well, I could test on the board but no idea how to tell which is pin 1 and pin 2. And if the harness is unplugged from the board, it would not be inappropriate “normal” state. Maybe I am over my head with testing if it should be obvious because I don’t see an indicator of pin numbering. As for testing at the lock harness, it makes no sense to me of how to test at the harness with the door closed, unless it is from the top and there is no way to get in there. Other than that the tester leads would have to be closed in the door and water would start without the rubber ring in place. I’m sure I’m missing something.
After doing the cancel workaround, it sounds like the water starts (or something does) before the door locks. Again, there is no indication of the door locking without doing the cancel workaround.
It makes the most sense to me from what I have read is that the programing is “stuck” in delayed start mode, but I have replaced all of the boards that I know of that could possibly store that setting.
I also read somewhere in a thread that it could be possible that hitting cancel can possibly send enough more current to the lock to make it work (but again it seems to lock after something else starts.
At this point, it seems I have three choices. 1) keep doing the cancel workaround until that fails and then get a new washer. 2) Call a service repair person, which I can rule out based on availability and exorbitant cost with no guarantee of repair. 3) Replace the door lock mechanism and hope that it mysteriously resolves the issue. (I believe it is about a $50 part).
I appreciate your help and wish the testing made sense to me.
Thanks for the diagrams. I will clearly need to unplug the 2 harnesses to do the test and I will when I have another person to help push the button while I hold leads. I suspect there will be no voltage when I push start without the cancel time delay. It is not attempting to start. It sounds a “chime” when start is pushed maybe like it is an error? I did one more test: I checked the time when going into the time delay screen and it seems to default to a time a few minutes before the current time which would make the start time the next day (which I am guessing is invalid). I changed the time to a couple minutes after current time and pushed start without hitting cancel and it operated as expected; locked the door, delayed for a couple minutes, and started and completed the cycle.
This seems like a logically clear indication that it is “stuck” in the delayed start mode, defaults to an invalid time, and I cannot find a way to turn off the delayed start other than the cancel process.
