Brand:Samsung Model Number:WA52J8700AP/A2 Main Symptom:Washer won’t start cycle. What happens & when:
Error Code (if any):None at this time.
Parts or tests already tried:Drain pump
Photos / video link:
Hello, I have the aforementioned washer in the title, sometimes it won’t start the cycle selected. However if the drum is spun counterclockwise, sometimes clockwise, close the lid, and press “Start” it will cause the cycle to start. Has anyone experienced this issue?
I’ve run it through the diagnostic mode and it worked as it should, I then also ran calibration, but it didn’t help. There are no error codes displayed. When the load doesn’t start and I’ve made selections and it adjusts the time, during the sensing mode the number area lights go around in a circle like it’s supposed to, then once it’s done the sensing mode and stops, the time goes back to what is displayed when initially turned on and a mode is selected and no other custom setting for the cycle were selected.
Example: turn on washer select “Normal” it displays 1:20, make selections like fabric softener and it’ll increase expected load duration so say 1:40 approx, after going through sensing mode and not starting the load it’ll revert back to 1:20. Press “Start” button to stop washer spin drum counterclockwise, close lid and press “Start” cycle then starts.
Sometimes it cycles the water valve on/off for a few seconds at a time until “Start” is pressed you open the lid, spin the drum again and then close the lid and press “Start” then it works as it should.
Thank you for the reply and providing the part number.
I don’t understand how it goes through the test mode with no issues though. Is it a board failure or something corrupted in the logic, since it shows no signs during the tests and completes cycles once started?
Alright so I replaced the board and went through the cycle. However I did the diagnostic mode and calibration first before running a load.
During the diagnostic mode I had a pc code for the motor position 2 times, and also got a bc2 code a couple times (neither code shows consistently, and didn’t during the cycle that I saw). Took it apart checked everything with the board connections and checked the back of the buttons board and put it back together, ran the diagnostic mode with no problem and a calibration. I noticed during the diagnostic mode checks the agitator was spinning much faster than the outer drum during the spin test.
I tried a load of laundry and the clothes were still wet after the cycle completed, would this be the clutch gear coupling is worn and needs replaced?
I would recommend checking the clutch assembly to see if something has broken, worn, or become misaligned. The shifter could be stuck or not aligned properly with the clutch arm. This is a new issue and did not occur previously correct?
It is new to me, I was unaware of this before if it was an issue. Are there any adjustments I can make, or is this stuff pretty much only able to be installed in one way?
The washer agitates like it’s suppose to, and the outer drum spins, it just doesn’t spin at the same speed as the agitator when they’re to be locked together spinning at the same speed.
I just tried a spin only cycle to get more water out of the clothes and I could hear the agitator spinning faster, and hitting clothes that are in the drum, but the drum never got to the speed that the agitator was at, the agitator was extra high speed setting and the drum looked like it was spinning at a low/medium.
I’ve heard those clutch gear couplings can be issues on the Samsung washers since they have the direct drive motor it wears the teeth until they’re angled instead of being square teeth like they’re supposed to be, which I would think would cause a noticeable noise, but the washer doesn’t seem to be any noisier than it was in the past.
I removed the replacement board and reinstalled the old board, tried running diagnostic mode twice and received a pc1 code both times.
The drum or the pulsator plate do not turn at all now. I ran a spin only cycle last night again and at the end of the cycle I heard a bunch of noise. I’m assuming the teeth of the clutch gear couplings were partially engaged and probably ruined now. I still need to get under the washer as I haven’t yet.
Alright, this doesn’t make sense to me, but it’s now spinning again. The drum and pulsator are spinning at the same speed as well during spin cycle. I apologize for all the posts just trying to provide as much info as possible.
I did not do that yet, I just changed the board to see if it had the slower drum spin than the pulsator with the old board, which after it started spinning the drum and pulsator, it’s been the same speed since changing back to the old board.
It sounds like something likely got hung up mechanically, and based on what you’ve described, the old control still has a logic issue. At this point, the clutch assembly definitely needs to be inspected to see if it has been damaged.