[quote=IvelDesigns;29015]
sorry, forgot to say that i am having an issue with spin only. agitate works, drains fine, but won’t spin even with one wet towel in it. there is a burning smell if we leave it, however, if you help start it by hand, it will spin up to speed on it’s own.
this is in a kenmore 90 series[/quote]
Well, I’m not a repairman (I’m the reason my husband’s quickly become one!!), but I can tell you this. I own a Kenmore 90 series and it has done that EXACT same thing 3 times now. And EACH time it has been the clutch, which cost just under $25.00 to purchase and took my husband less than an hour to replace. EASY repair!!
I can’t tell you it’s NOT the brake shoes, but I can tell you that wasn’t the case for us. Think I might check your clutch just in case.
I’m new here, and I think my machine is to do with the brakes samething, because it makes a bad noise when it spins have mastered everyhting As for the hull of the washing machine is coupling the off.I see cycle.I Great shape, because my motor off…
I have replaced my washer and I would like to repair the old one and give it away. When it went into the spin mode the motor smoked. unplugged and checked motor,OK. Removed the agitator and the spanner nut but I cant get the basket out. I removed the transmission. Looking at the clutch and brake , can someone break it down to me how they work? The spin tube would not come out either. I am a TV tech. that opened my own shop and expanded into appliances, had 10 employees for 35 years, retired in 95 and am now 86. A little handicapped due to age. I love to understand how things work. Can you help??
All info is in the sticky “replacing direct drive washer brake shoes”. You can clean the rust off the top of the spin tube to allow it’s removal; lay the washer on it’s back to prevent oil coming out.In my service work, I never pull out or replace the spin tube, unless it is damaged by a loose drive block.To change brakes, I just pry it down a little. Also, when removing the pump, I never pull the hoses off, just jam it on the frame to the left.
Last, will any silicone grease work on the roller. I mean, I am buying the brake shoes through your website but buying this lubricant: WHIRLPOOL Lubricant, part number: AP3131935 that almost cost as much as the brake itself seems like a waste of money.
You can usually obtain a technician manual of most washers by looking beneath the control panel assembly. For front loaders, it is usually behind the lower toe panel or sometimes on the inner side wall.
Hello. I pulled my motor from the transmission and tried to rotate the transmission using the coupler. The shaft just keeps turning. It doesn’t engage the basket at all.
I replaced the coupler but it broke during the first load.
When I first tried to rotate the shaft clockwise,it was really hard to turn. I tried to turn the basket by hand and it moved but it too was hard to turn. After I turned the basket by hand,the shaft doesn’t catch on anything.
Is this a brake shoes problem?
Thanks
An update to my question:
I pulled the transmission out to look at the brake pads and put a little oil on the pads. They don’t seem to be very tight,they turn easily in the housing.
Can I rule out the brake pads as the reason for the coupler breaking?
Regardless of which motor and transmission I swap into this machine ( 2 different good used transmissions and 3 different good used motors ) this 10yr WP will draw 12 ton13 amps when agitating with large load. Tub and basket clean and nothing jamming them, basket tube to shaft clean and lubed, and waterpump clear.
During spin cycle motor draws 8 to 9 amps with same load of clothes.
Also, if these motors are thermally protected, at what temp should it trip?
Each of these motors get too hot to touch, yet still keep running at 12 amps. There is no smell of electrical motor failure. And this process has been done outside with cabinet removed and ambient temp is 65 degrees.
Do these motors have a “service factor” amp draw? If so its not stated on motor along with their rating.
Perhaps I’m not getting a good connection to motor during agitation?? If so I m thinking of bypassing timer and wire harnest to motor switch,but which wire combinations should I send a direct power source to for not hi and lo agitations?
Any help or thoughts is appreciated.
[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]For high speed on a 2-speed motor connect hot to motor blue wire and yellow wire. Connect neutral to motor white and capacitor. Remove red wire coming from timer from capacitor and connect there (to the capacitor). For low speed, hot to motor orange and yellow.
I don’t know the trip temp rating for the thermal overload but the motor is rated for max ambient surrounding air temp of 40°C (104°F) and winding insulation rating of 130°C (266°F). The thermal switch is mounted on the frame right next to the motor switch.
Dear richappy and other washer pros,
I have Kenmore Elite 11026922502 (about 10 years old), has been running ok, until about a year sometime cloths are quite wet after what looks like normal spin. Then I set it for additional spin and it is OK, sometime even one additional spin is needed. This problem became more frequent recently. I checked the coupler, it looked ok. I checked also clutch (it is 6 pad clutch) and after removing from washer I could move it with the finger, it moves but it does not feel loose. There was also a lot of little dark pieces inside of the clutch coming most likely from the brake shoe pads as they has been wearing off by time. The brake pads does not look thin though and I could also turn plastic cam till the brake release and rotate counter-clockwise without any problem.
My question is what should I replace if washer spins and randomly (but recently more often) cloths remain quite wet after normally looking spin.
Replace clutch (if yes should I install 6 pad or 3 pad, original is 6 pad).
Replace brake shoes? Or just grease shoe cam rollers?
Replace also tub suspension pads (after 10 years of use)?
Thank you for your suggestions!
[QUOTE=IvelDesigns;29015]maybe it’s just me, but this seems pretty complicated for a person who has never worked on a washing machine before. would you agree?
if i were to call a repairman, what kind of charge should i expect to pay?
edit
sorry, forgot to say that i am having an issue with spin only. agitate works, drains fine, but won’t spin even with one wet towel in it. there is a burning smell if we leave it, however, if you help start it by hand, it will spin up to speed on it’s own.
this is in a kenmore 90 series[/QUOTE]
If it spins empty, and not with a full load, its your clutch. All thats required to repair is a few tools. If your not comfortable enough to repair it yourself, the repair usually costs around $180 to $220. All depending on the repair company used. I replace these all day long, and this is one of the most common issues with the 80 and 90 series washers.