I did put the food into a chest freezer, and ate what’s left of an old pint of ice cream. I’ll take the wins where I can get them
On the Samsung RS261MDRS/XAA, part DA34-00051B is the 2-button door interlock switch. Samsung’s service documentation identifies it as a 2-pin door-interlock switch rated 125/250 VAC.
Its purpose is to tell the refrigerator whether the door is open or closed. That door-status signal is used for functions such as the interior light and door-dependent operation. On this model, it is located in the cabinet/upper hinge area and is separate from the DA34-00043C reed switches also used for door sensing.
Why it matters for your RS261MDRS/XAA problem
Since your refrigerator is cold but the freezer is thawing, this switch is worth checking because the refrigerator needs the correct door-closed signal for normal door-dependent operation.
Quick test:
- Open the freezer door.
- Locate and manually depress the door/interlock switch.
- Watch whether the interior light responds.
- Listen for any change in fan operation.
- With power disconnected, unplug the switch and test its two terminals with a multimeter.
- Press and release the switch—you should see it change state, from continuity to OL or vice versa.
If it doesn’t change state, the DA34-00051B is defective.
One important point: DA34-00051B is discontinued, and multiple parts sources show no direct replacement.
If you’re troubleshooting the freezer-thawing problem from your earlier RS261MDRS/XAA case, I would test this switch before condemning it. The next thing I’d check is whether the freezer evaporator fan actually receives voltage with the door switch held closed.
I manually press the door and the light doesn’t change. After 30+ seconds there is no fan noise. I shut off the refrigerator’s circuit and access the switch. I unplug the 2 connectors and put a multimeter on the posts. The reading does change from 0L to a positive number.
I turn the circuit back on and the freezer door is open. I get the warning signal for the door being open. I manually press the door switch, the warning sound does not switch off
There are also magnetic reed switches that have to make contact to complete the circuit.
On the Samsung RS261MDRS/XAA, DA34-00043C is a magnetic reed-type door switch. Samsung’s parts listing shows DA34-00043C for this model at schematic location G0068.
Location
The reed switch is hidden behind the upper hinge/hinge cover area, rather than being a conventional push-button switch that you can see and press. The magnet associated with the switch is in the door. When the door closes, the magnet comes close enough to the reed switch to change its state.
That is why you won’t necessarily see a normal door-switch plunger when looking around the cabinet.
Quickest test — use a magnet
Before taking anything apart, this is the test I would start with:
- Open the refrigerator door.
- Take a reasonably strong small magnet.
- Slowly move the magnet around the top of the cabinet near the upper door hinge/reed-switch area.
- Watch the interior light and listen/observe for a change in the refrigerator’s door-open indication.
- When the magnet reaches the reed switch, the refrigerator should behave as though the door has been closed.
Samsung uses this switch specifically to tell the control whether the door is open or closed.
If the magnet makes the refrigerator recognize the door as closed: the reed switch and its circuit are probably working. Look closely at the door magnet, door alignment, hinge height, or the distance between the door magnet and reed switch.
If moving a magnet directly over the reed-switch location does nothing: then I would access the switch and meter-test it.
Testing DA34-00043C with a multimeter
Unplug the refrigerator first.
Remove the upper hinge cover to expose the reed-switch wiring. Disconnect the switch so you’re testing the switch itself and not reading through the control board.
Set your meter to continuity or the lowest resistance/Ω setting.
Test across the two switch wires:
Magnet away from switch: note the reading.
Magnet directly against/over switch: the reading should change state — typically from OL/open to approximately 0 Ω/continuity, or vice versa depending on how that particular switch circuit is configured.
The important part isn’t which state you initially see; the switch must reliably change state when the magnet is brought close and change back when it’s removed.
If it stays OL all the time or stays at continuity all the time regardless of magnet position, DA34-00043C is defective.
Samsung troubleshooting information likewise calls for checking door-switch continuity in both the door-open and door-closed positions when diagnosing a door-sensing problem.
One thing I’d check before replacing it
If you’re troubleshooting this because the refrigerator thinks the door is open, do the external magnet test first. It’s a very useful test on these Samsung units because a working switch that doesn’t respond to the actual door can point toward a weak/missing door magnet or door/hinge alignment issue, rather than the switch itself.
DA34-00043C is confirmed as compatible with the RS261MDRS/XAA.
There is also a model-relevant replacement demonstration showing removal of the cover, switch removal, and installation.
Ok, good news. I put a magnet to the left of the manual switch button and the light turned off. The manual switch button was not pressed in for the lights to switch off. After several seconds I heard a fan start up and felt cool, but not cold, air came from the vents at the rear of the cabinet.
The next step as I understand it is to look at the rear panel to see how much frost is there. Does that mean take off the cover panel? There is no frost on the outside of the panel. There was no frost when I took out the food. Perhaps there was frost that ended up on my floor this morning? Either way, no frost noticed and fan is running. I think the next suggestion was to check the compressor.
let me know the next steps
I’d still be interested to know if the evaporator is iced up limiting airflow, so if you could take the back cover off and let me know what you see
Yeah that’s perfectly fine. No air flow restrictions, fan running and compressor is cooling. I really think it’s the damper assembly
That image was hours after the symptom showed up. I went out, came back, and looked in the freezer. That grate is clean of any ice. I am hesitant to put in another damper since it might be or might not be the problem. Might have to buy a new model. Drat. Thanks for your help though! If there’s any other tips, I’d like to hear them