Brand:Frigidaire Model Number:FGHD2465NF1A Main Symptom:PF power failure What happens & when:random
My dishwasher displays a PF code and stops the cycle at random times. It doesn’t happen every cycle but usually occurs during the drying stage.
Internet search advised most likely cause was failing main board (dishwasher is well over 10 yrs old).
Ordered replacement main board here, installed and it shows 94 on the display (rather than 99 with original board) and an S. It then powers off after about 5-10 seconds and can only be powered back on by cycling main power to dishwasher.
I contacted support and was sent a second board with the same results. I am now being told I can’t return the board because it was installed even though it’s clearly not an issue with my dishwasher that these boards don’t work at all.
I think there are two separate issues here: the original intermittent PF problem, and the strange behavior with the replacement boards.
For model FGHD2465NF1A, the current replacement main control is 5304514670, replacing the older 5304504782. So if that is the board you received, it is listed as compatible with this model.
Interestingly, there is a documented report from another FGHD2465NF1A owner using this exact replacement board where the display changed from the normal 99+ to a different time and showed a flashing S after installation. So I would not assume you received two defective boards.
First — diagnose the original PF problem
PF literally means the control detected that its incoming power was interrupted. Frigidaire’s owner’s information says PF appears when power has been interrupted and is normally cleared with START/CANCEL.
Because yours happened randomly and commonly during drying, I would check the power circuit before condemning another control.
1. Check the dishwasher junction box
Turn the breaker OFF and remove the lower access panel. Open the electrical junction box and inspect:
Black supply connection
White neutral connection
Wire nuts/connectors
Burned or discolored wiring
Loose terminal connections
A marginal connection can work normally until the heater comes on and current draw increases. PF complaints on this model are specifically associated with checking the incoming wiring/harness connections.
2. Check voltage under load
With the machine operating, you should have approximately:
Black to White = 120 VAC
The important thing isn’t just having 120 V while the dishwasher is sitting idle. Watch the voltage when the heater/drying portion begins.
If voltage suddenly drops substantially when the heater energizes, you’ve found the reason the control is reporting PF. Check the junction-box connections, house wiring, breaker and neutral.
Live Power Warning: This test requires measuring exposed 120 VAC. Don’t perform it unless you’re comfortable working around live voltage.
Check the heating element
Since your PF occurred mostly during drying, this is especially worthwhile.
Disconnect power and disconnect at least one heater wire before measuring resistance.
The heater should measure approximately 16 Ω. A service answer for this exact model specifically recommends checking the heater when PF occurs during certain portions of the cycle.
Also check:
Either heater terminal → dishwasher chassis = OL/infinite resistance
There should be no continuity to ground.
About the new board showing “94” and “S”
This part is important: 94 isn’t necessarily an error code. The display normally shows the estimated minutes remaining, and anything over 99 minutes is displayed with a plus sign.
Likewise, S can be associated with the Sanitize indication, so those characters by themselves don’t prove the replacement board is bad.
What concerns me much more is:
The dishwasher completely powers down after 5–10 seconds and won’t respond until power is cycled.
Since two replacement boards behave identically while the original board does not, I’d reinstall the original board temporarily and concentrate on the console/touchpad interface and connections between the console and main control.
Inspect the connectors carefully for:
Bent or backed-out pins
Corrosion/moisture
Loose connector seating
Damaged ribbon/contact connections
Signs of heat damage
This model also has a history of console/keypad failures producing unusual display behavior. The control-panel assembly is 807545704.
What I’d do before buying anything else
My diagnostic order would be:
Original board back in → inspect junction-box connections → verify steady 120 VAC while running/drying → ohm the heater (~16 Ω and no ground leakage) → inspect the console/control connectors.
I would not buy another main board at this point. Two 5304514670 boards producing exactly the same unusual behavior makes two independently defective boards pretty unlikely, especially since there’s already a report of this replacement board producing different display behavior on the same FGHD2465NF1A model.
If the original board runs normally except for the occasional PF and your incoming 120 VAC actually drops when the heater comes on, the original board probably wasn’t the cause of the PF in the first place.
So here’s the problem. First off this looks almost exactly like what ChatGPT told me to do. That’s how i ended up buying the replacement board.
Second, I’m told this board should work for my dishwasher. It doesn’t. I now have two. I’m told I can’t return them because they were installed. it’s clearly not the right part for my dishwasher. Returns told me i have to talk to someone in the forum. I don’t believe this was an actual person that typed that, it’s clearly AI generated.
I am very disappointed with this process and if I can’t return the board, because I can’t use it on my dishwasher, I won’t be buying anything from this site again and I won’t send people here for their parts. If I buy the part you say should work for my dishwasher, it sure should work whether it fixes my problem or not.
I have already replaced the main control panel. I repaired an exposed wire on the LED ribbon since that part isn’t available anymore. That was not the cause of the periodic failure. I will double check the heating element as described above, but that doesn’t fix the wasted $160 on a part that won’t work.
Most of our replies are run thru chat gpt tp clean everything up and to try to make it look more professional. I will forward this to a senior member of our customer service team to see what kind of resolution can be reached.
When it has a PF are you checking the incoming power at that time?
Does there seem to be any kind of pattern to the PF?
Live Power Warning: This test requires measuring exposed 120 VAC. Don’t perform it unless you’re comfortable working around live voltage.