Brand:Whirlpool Model Number: wrb322dmbb00 Main Symptom: no power to ice maker What happens & when:
I recently purchased a new ice maker # W10884390 from Appliancepartspros.com but when I installed it, it still does not work. I measured the voltage with my voltage meter and it says it has 0 volts. I can’t get it to cycle on with the T and H buttons, I’ve tried unplugging and plugging back in the fridge. I’ve Unplugged the ice maker unit itself and inspected the wires weren’t upside down. I’ve changed the temperature of the freezer multiple times. There’s no ice frozen in the tubes or hoses.
I can’t figure out where the power for the ice maker comes from and why it isn’t getting any?
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
It looks like this ice maker gets its power through the freezer light switch. I would make sure the freezer light switch is working properly. If the switch is not being fully depressed when the freezer door is opened, the ice maker may read 0 volts and will not operate.
Also, what temperature is the freezer currently maintaining? That information will help narrow down the cause of the issue
Yes it is powered by the light switch. When I test it with the door “closed” the T and H do measure 120 volts now, I had to switch to the other cords, ( I still had the old cords plugged in, not the new ones.) but it still does not make any ice. the wire sensor is in the down “on” position and the water line is not frozen. the freezer is currently at between 0 and 1 degree F.
I have tried restarting it by using the T and H buttons but the dial does not start turning even with the door “closed”
It’s possible that the part is defective. I sent you the tech sheet, and hopefully that will help. It’s really odd that it’s still reading 0.
After you go through the tech sheet, let me know if it’s still not working. If it isn’t, we can keep troubleshooting and try to get it working for you.
this tech sheet does not match my ice maker. there is no button on the side to take the cover off. there is no “on/off” switch and there is no H-tap connector piece. I can’t follow these instructions.
I have a thermometer that we use for the temperature in our bedroom. it does go into negative numbers. the display shows it’s on level 3 which is is below the recommended of level 4 for the freezer.
What concerns me is the dial never moves around. and when I test in the L hole with my volt meter even with the door “closed” it still reads 0 volts.
The whole ice machine just doesn’t turn on, no water, no ice, no movement, nothing
The whole unit is not dead, just when I test in the “L”. But the T and H buttons do register 120 volts when the door is “closed”.
the model number W10884390 is the ice maker I ordered. That is the number on my order invoice, however the sticker on the new unit is W10793297 which matches the old ice maker from the freezer’s unit number.
The water line works, the unit has 120 volts, the door switch works, the wire arm is down in the “on” position and the temperature of the freezer is cold enough. I don’t know what else to check.
Since you have 120 Volts AC across T and H, the ice maker is receiving power. If using a jumper wire between T and H did not start the motor and initiate a harvest cycle, then it’s more than likely that you have a faulty ice maker.
I’m thinking it might be a faulty ice maker as well. However could you walk me through how to test the L and N with a multi meter? I want to confirm it’s not a water inlet valve issue. the water line has enough pressure and I get a reading on the water inlet plug area. But I’m not sure if I’m testing it correctly with the multi meter?
The only way to get voltage to the valve at this point is to install a jumper wire between the L/T and V terminals. If the valve is working properly, water should begin flowing immediately. Be sure to remove the jumper after a second or two, as it’s only intended as a quick test. If water flows during the test, the valve is likely good and the issue is elsewhere in the circuit.
ok nothing happens with the L/T and V terminals. no water starts to flow at all, I don’t even hear it kicking on to start. that’s with the power, and water still on and the door “closed”
