Kenmore Series 80 washing machine is clicking. Definitely coming from inside the motor. Seems to only happen while on ‘high’ speed (switch it to low and the sound stops.) We’ve pulled the motor and powered it up by itself and the clicking stops. Added the transmission and no clicking. Add the pump and the clicking starts. Its like the motor doesn’t have enough ‘power’ to get everything moving (too much resistance). An ideas on what is causing this? If the motor is ‘bad’ can a relay/capacitor/switch be replaced to solve this problem or will the whole motor need to be replaced? Again the sound only seems to happen when hooked up up to everthing and on high speed. No clicking when on low speeds or on high powered on by itself.
Need the full model number of the washer. Should be 8 more numbers after the 110 prefix.
Eric
[QUOTE=fairbank56;850280]Need the full model number of the washer. Should be 8 more numbers after the 110 prefix.
Eric[/QUOTE]
11028884790
I’ve looked up this clicking extensively tonight and I think its either the motor switch or the windings in the motor are bad. If either of these were faulty would the machine still work in low speed but click when in high? Also, is either of these were faulty would the motor work fine (no clicking) in low and high speeds when pulled out of the machine (no pump, transmission) hooked up to it? Seems the clicking only happens when there is the resistance of the pump and transmission against it.
Does it do it in agitate, spin or both? Does it do it in first part of drain, right after agitation stops? Drain is high speed only regardless of speed switch setting and does not go through motor switch contacts.
Eric
[QUOTE=fairbank56;850334]Does it do it in agitate, spin or both? Does it do it in first part of drain, right after agitation stops? Drain is high speed only regardless of speed switch setting and does not go through motor switch contacts.
Eric[/QUOTE]
I’ll check on when exactly it clicks tonight when I’m back in front of the machine. I know when we set the timer to ‘spin’ and the speed to ‘fast’ the clicking would begin when we closed the lid. Disconnected the motor from the transmission and pump (without adjusting the timer position) and power it back on and there is no clicking. It seems like there is no much resistance working against the motor when its trying to get up to speed (fast). Seems like the clicking starts when both the transmission and pump are connected to motor. No clicking when its just the pump and motor or just the motor and transmission.
May be an obstruction in the pump or pump is seizing up. Disconnect hoses from pump and check for obstruction and to see if you can freely rotate the pump impeller. Problem may also be a faulty speed switch causing a voltage drop to the motor. If you have a multimeter, monitor the voltage at speed switch blue wire terminal. (place other meter probe at a good clean ground point). When washer goes into drain, power to motor is direct from timer to motor blue wire. In all other cycles, power is through motor switch, back up to timer, over to speed switch and then back to motor (blue for high speed, white/violet for slow and white/orange for extra slow). The clicking is because the motor must always start in high speed (via motor switch) regardless of speed selected. Motor switch is operated via centrifugal mechanism in motor. When motor comes up to speed, the motor switch redirects power up to timer which directs power over to speed switch (yellow/blue for agitate, red/blue for spin), then back to motor. If voltage drops due to faulty speed switch contacts, motor slows and switches back to high speed and the process repeats.
Eric
[QUOTE=fairbank56;850343]May be an obstruction in the pump or pump is seizing up. Disconnect hoses from pump and check for obstruction and to see if you can freely rotate the pump impeller. Problem may also be a faulty speed switch causing a voltage drop to the motor. If you have a multimeter, monitor the voltage at speed switch blue wire terminal. (place other meter probe at a good clean ground point). When washer goes into drain, power to motor is direct from timer to motor blue wire. In all other cycles, power is through motor switch, back up to timer, over to speed switch and then back to motor (blue for high speed, white/violet for slow and white/orange for extra slow). The clicking is because the motor must always start in high speed (via motor switch) regardless of speed selected. Motor switch is operated via centrifugal mechanism in motor. When motor comes up to speed, the motor switch redirects power up to timer which directs power over to speed switch (yellow/blue for agitate, red/blue for spin), then back to motor. If voltage drops due to faulty speed switch contacts, motor slows and switches back to high speed and the process repeats.
Eric[/QUOTE]
Pump is brand new with no obstructions. It it were the motor switch would it ‘work’ when powered on by itself, but not when hooked up with the transmission and pump? Seems like a bad switch would be bad all the time, not just when there is more of a strain against the motor.
I’ll check with the multimeter tonight and report back. Thanks!
The more mechanical load there is on the motor, the more current it will draw. If the problem is a faulty contact/connection, there will be a voltage drop across that fault and the drop will be greater with greater load on the motor. Does the motor shaft spin freely by hand, no binding? If so, then I think the problem is most likely the speed switch (at user console), but could be the motor switch or motor connector. You can take the cover off the motor switch to check the contacts. The double pole contacts are the ones that switch speeds when starting, the single pole one is for the start winding. You can jump out the user speed switch for spin mode by jumping out the red/blue and blue wires. Jumper must be 16-18 gauge wire and connections tight as full motor current (8-10 amps) passes through it. Check the orange wire at motor connector. Pull on it to make sure it isn’t about to break. Unplug connector and check orange wire terminal for corrosion/blackening/looseness. Check connection at motor thermal overload switch, has white wire attached to it.
Eric
Yes, some of what has been mentioned can cause a similar fault; but to answer the specific ON/OFF/ON/OFF… CLICKING problem you will find that the issue is with one of the following - the centrifugal motor switch (electrical portion), the centrifugal motor switch (the mechanical portion inside the motor on the shaft - and can be fixed in most cases), or the motor itself. Typically if the mechanical portion of the centrifugal switch is faulty or popped out of alignment most techs would just replace the motor; however, it can be repaired in many cases. (This was the fault with my washer).
Here are the symptoms:
[LIST=1]
- washer works fine in agitate.
- Spin cycle does not work
- Motor clicks ON and OFF (till it overheats eventually and shuts down)
(Note that this is different from the drum sticking slightly or faulty motor shaft connection which is typically a grinding type of click and not a click of On and Off)[/LIST]Explanation:
[LIST]
- The motor has a centrifugal switch. the centrifugal switch DOES NOT NORMALLY ENGAGE DURING AGITATE CYCLE.
- It only engages during high speed operation as the centrifugal switch is a pair of heavy spring loaded chunks of metal that throw out (actually pivots down to the flat position and pulls down the plastic disk portion) during high speed rotation.
- THE PURPOSE of this is to engage/disengage the switch lever to the switch mounted to the top of the motor. (this is the part where the harness plugs into the motor).
- This switch allows both the capacitor to engage the start winding and to ensure that the correct set of windings are being used for high speed operation. (In all honesty - while I am an electrical engineer and tech- I have not bothered to examine the wiring diagram for the operation of this switch and which wires are switched etc – it is not necessary to trouble shoot or fix this fault.[/LIST] The Fault:
[LIST] - If the switch does not engage/disengage the circuits properly the motor will do one of two things.[/LIST][INDENT][LIST=1]
- Motor will not start: If the capacitor and wiring associated with the start cap circuit is all good then 1. the circuit is not making contact through the switch / bad switch, 2. the switch is good but stuck in the high speed engaged mode which opens the cap circuit.
- Motor TURNS ON & OFF, ON & OFF…
This is due to the capacitor properly engaged to start the motor but the switch does not “SWITCH” to the proper motor winding configuration for high speed spin operation. This causes the motor to “oscillate” "start, off, start, off… (combined with a audible click as it switches on and off)[/LIST][/INDENT][LIST] - So next we need to find out if the electrical switch is faulty or the centrifugal mechanical portion is faulty.
- ISOLATE FAULT --electrical switch or mechanical part?
[LIST=1] - remove the switch from the motor by unscrewing the one screw
- examine the lever arm (typically white) for any damage
- If lever is good, remove the switch cover plate from the switch.
- actuate the lever for proper action of contacts.
- fold up a small piece of paper or cardboard and wedge it inside the switch forcing the motor switch lever to engage.
- reassemble switch and switch back onto motor.
- pull harness out to out side of washer and connect motor leave motor sitting on ground
- insure that the harness is plugged into the chassis and the lid is closed (or bypass the lid switch.
- Run spin cycle for a few seconds-[LIST=1]
- if motor runs fine then the problem is in the mechanical centrifugal switch.
- if the motor turns off /on / off / on then the problem is 1. likely the switch contacts are dirty or 2. switch is bad or 3. the winding is faulty (not as likely)[/LIST][/LIST]
- EXAMINING THE SWITCH:[/LIST][LIST=1][LIST=1]
- the switch can be unscrewed (single screw), pulled off motor, and switch cover taken off.
- examine the lever (typically white) for damage.
- Exercise the lever and see if the contacts engage
- If they engage and you wish the contacts can be pulled one (or 2) at a time (straight up and out with small needle nose) inspect and clean with emery cloth or 300-600 sandpaper.
- If all checks out, the lever is not broken and the contacts are clean it is not likely the electrical switch itself.[/LIST][/LIST][LIST]
- EXAMINING THE MECHANICAL CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH:[LIST=1]
- This is a bit tricky but you first have to remove the electrical switch from the motor
- The mechanical part of the switch is comprised of 2 chunks of metal hooked to each other via a pair of springs under and a plastic disk.
- Examine that the switch has both springs and that the two chunks of metal are sitting with an angle. The angle should be pointing up to the plastic disk. Also the metal will be resting with the top edge that points up against the actual disk and not with the lower portions of the disk or disk shaft.
- carefully press down with one (sometimes needs two) screwdrivers on the metal chunks to see if the disk moves down and up with the metal chunks smoothly
- If the mechanical portion is missing any parts, mis-positioned, or not engaged properly with the plastic disk such that they operate smoothly together then the mechanical switch is the problem.[/LIST]
- It can take some manipulation to engage the metal chunks back into the proper position. (It took me about 20 minutes).[/LIST]If none of this solves your on/off/on/off problem and you have ensured that the switch is good and the mechanical “chunks” are both good and properly aligned and engaged, or you just cannot fix the mechanical part then you will need a new motor.
Yes, some of what has been mentioned can cause a similar fault; but to answer the specific ON/OFF/ON/OFF… CLICKING problem you will find that the issue is with one of the following - the centrifugal motor switch (electrical portion), the centrifugal motor switch (the mechanical portion inside the motor on the shaft - and can be fixed in most cases), or the motor itself. Typically if the mechanical portion of the centrifugal switch is faulty or popped out of alignment most techs would just replace the motor; however, it can be repaired in many cases. (This was the fault with my washer).
Here are the symptoms:
[LIST=1]
- washer works fine in agitate.
- Spin cycle does not work
- Motor clicks ON and OFF (till it overheats eventually and shuts down)
(Note that this is different from the drum sticking slightly or faulty motor shaft connection which is typically a grinding type of click and not a click of On and Off)[/LIST]Explanation:
[LIST]
- The motor has a centrifugal switch. the centrifugal switch DOES NOT NORMALLY ENGAGE DURING AGITATE CYCLE.
- It only engages during high speed operation as the centrifugal switch is a pair of heavy spring loaded chunks of metal that throw out (actually pivots down to the flat position and pulls down the plastic disk portion) during high speed rotation.
- THE PURPOSE of this is to engage/disengage the switch lever to the switch mounted to the top of the motor. (this is the part where the harness plugs into the motor).
- This switch allows both the capacitor to engage the start winding and to ensure that the correct set of windings are being used for high speed operation. (In all honesty - while I am an electrical engineer and tech- I have not bothered to examine the wiring diagram for the operation of this switch and which wires are switched etc – it is not necessary to trouble shoot or fix this fault.[/LIST] The Fault:
[LIST] - If the switch does not engage/disengage the circuits properly the motor will do one of two things.[/LIST][INDENT][LIST=1]
- Motor will not start: If the capacitor and wiring associated with the start cap circuit is all good then 1. the circuit is not making contact through the switch / bad switch, 2. the switch is good but stuck in the high speed engaged mode which opens the cap circuit.
- Motor TURNS ON & OFF, ON & OFF…
This is due to the capacitor properly engaged to start the motor but the switch does not “SWITCH” to the proper motor winding configuration for high speed spin operation. This causes the motor to “oscillate” "start, off, start, off… (combined with a audible click as it switches on and off)[/LIST][/INDENT][LIST] - So next we need to find out if the electrical switch is faulty or the centrifugal mechanical portion is faulty.
- ISOLATE FAULT --electrical switch or mechanical part?
[LIST=1] - remove the switch from the motor by unscrewing the one screw
- examine the lever arm (typically white) for any damage
- If lever is good, remove the switch cover plate from the switch.
- actuate the lever for proper action of contacts.
- fold up a small piece of paper or cardboard and wedge it inside the switch forcing the motor switch lever to engage.
- reassemble switch and switch back onto motor.
- pull harness out to out side of washer and connect motor leave motor sitting on ground
- insure that the harness is plugged into the chassis and the lid is closed (or bypass the lid switch.
- Run spin cycle for a few seconds-[LIST=1]
- if motor runs fine then the problem is in the mechanical centrifugal switch.
- if the motor turns off /on / off / on then the problem is 1. likely the switch contacts are dirty or 2. switch is bad or 3. the winding is faulty (not as likely)[/LIST][/LIST]
- EXAMINING THE SWITCH:[/LIST][LIST=1][LIST=1]
- the switch can be unscrewed (single screw), pulled off motor, and switch cover taken off.
- examine the lever (typically white) for damage.
- Exercise the lever and see if the contacts engage
- If they engage and you wish the contacts can be pulled one (or 2) at a time (straight up and out with small needle nose) inspect and clean with emery cloth or 300-600 sandpaper.
- If all checks out, the lever is not broken and the contacts are clean it is not likely the electrical switch itself.[/LIST][/LIST][LIST]
- EXAMINING THE MECHANICAL CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH:[LIST=1]
- This is a bit tricky but you first have to remove the electrical switch from the motor
- The mechanical part of the switch is comprised of 2 chunks of metal hooked to each other via a pair of springs under and a plastic disk.
- Examine that the switch has both springs and that the two chunks of metal are sitting with an angle. The angle should be pointing up to the plastic disk. Also the metal will be resting with the top edge that points up against the actual disk and not with the lower portions of the disk or disk shaft.
- carefully press down with one (sometimes needs two) screwdrivers on the metal chunks to see if the disk moves down and up with the metal chunks smoothly
- If the mechanical portion is missing any parts, mis-positioned, or not engaged properly with the plastic disk such that they operate smoothly together then the mechanical switch is the problem.[/LIST]
- It can take some manipulation to engage the metal chunks back into the proper position. (It took me about 20 minutes).[/LIST]If none of this solves your on/off/on/off problem and you have ensured that the switch is good and the mechanical “chunks” are both good and properly aligned and engaged, or you just cannot fix the mechanical part then you will need a new motor.