On the Maytag MTW5870TW0, the large nut above the drive block is the spanner/tub nut. It is standard thread: turn it counterclockwise to loosen.
Removing the drive-block/spanner nut
- Unplug the washer.
- Remove the fabric-softener dispenser and agitator cap.
- Remove the agitator retaining bolt with a 7/16-inch socket.
- Pull the agitator straight up and out.
- You will now see the large spanner nut on top of the basket/drive block.
- Put a tub/spanner wrench securely on the nut.
- Hold the basket to keep it from turning.
- Strike the spanner wrench sharply with a hammer counterclockwise — toward the left. The Maytag service procedure specifically calls for tapping the wrench with a hammer counterclockwise while holding the basket.
- Once it breaks loose, spin the nut off by hand.
- Lift the inner basket out. The drive block is underneath the basket on the spin tube.
If that nut is really stuck
These can be extremely tight after years of service. Soak the threads with penetrating oil for 10–20 minutes, then use several sharp hammer blows rather than steady pressure. A proper spanner wrench is much less likely to damage the nut than a punch or screwdriver.
After the basket is removed, tap upward around the bottom edge of the drive block, alternating sides. Don’t beat directly on the transmission shaft. The replacement drive block for this design is WP389140.
Important: This one is not reverse-threaded.
OFF = counterclockwise. ON = clockwise.
If you’re removing this because of the weak/no-spin problem, inspect the two drive-block notches and the two tabs at the top of the spin tube once you get it apart. Worn or rounded engagement there can cause the basket to slip instead of reaching full spin speed.
Good news! The spanner nut finally came off! My awesome-sauce neighbor came over after work and we took turns holding it and hitting the spanner wrench with the mini sledge hammer (the wide side worked better). Next, the basket is stuck. We tried counter-pressure to pull it out and have tried different things and Googled, but it’s also pretty stuck. Are there any pro tips on getting the stuck basket out?
It’s probably seized in place from corrosion, much like the spanner nut was. I know this may sound a little counterintuitive, but there’s a good chance the drive block will need to be replaced anyway.
I’d soak the area around the drive block with plenty of penetrating oil and give it some time to work in. Then, if possible, have someone pull upward on the basket while you tap downward on the drive block with a hammer. The combination of upward pressure and tapping can sometimes break the corrosion loose.
If it’s really stubborn, some technicians will carefully apply heat around the area where the drive block is stuck. The slight expansion can help break the corrosion bond. Just be very careful with heat around plastic parts, wiring, and any penetrating oil since many penetrating oils are flammable.
Once you get it apart, I’d plan on replacing the drive block if it’s badly corroded or gets damaged during removal.
Thank you so much for your help, suggestions, and support. My neighbor and I couldn’t get the basket out. We tried tons of different things we found on Google and a trip to the hardware store. We’re both pretty handy kind of people and floored it wouldn’t come out, even with probably a third of a can of PB Blaster. If I didn’t know better I’d say it was glued by the manufacturer. We decided we’re going to buy a new set and since Labor Day’s coming up we should be able to get a pretty good deal. We’ve had a good run, around 10 years, so it’s time.
well I hope you get that much use out of your new set. One word of advice no matter what brand you get, get the extended warranty
Okay, we will. Thank you!