Brand: Maytag Model Number: MTW5870TW0 Main Symptom: Washer has been draining, but the clothes are soaking wet. When it spins, it makes a buzzing and clicking noise repeatedly, then when I open the lid it smells like burning. What happens & when:
It fills fine and drains fine. I replaced the clutch. The issue hasn’t been resolved, same exact thing. I took the agitator out and inspected it, the parts look intact. I took out the drain pump and inspected it, nothing is stuck in it and the internal wheel spins freely (carefully pushed with a screwdriver). I inspected the brake shoes and motor coupling and they look intact/no damage, just old. I couldn’t find any missing or broken pieces.
I noticed when I replaced the clutch that everything has a light grease film and a little bit more in some areas. I’m thinking that’s just from age and not necessarily a leak. There’s no oil on the ground.
On this Maytag MTW5870TW0, I would stop replacing clutch parts for now. The combination of poor/no spin + repeated buzzing/clicking + burning smell, with a new clutch making no difference, points more toward something mechanically loading the drive system.
This model uses the older Whirlpool direct-drive system with a separate gearcase, clutch, basket-drive/brake assembly, motor coupling, and pump.
First test — spin the basket by hand
With the washer unplugged, open the lid and grab the inner basket.
Turn it firmly counterclockwise by hand.
Some brake resistance is normal, but the basket should move reasonably smoothly once you overcome it. I’m looking for:
Extremely difficult to turn
Binding or grabbing
Grinding
A spot where it locks up
Basket barely moving regardless of how much force you apply
If it’s extremely stiff, I would concentrate on the basket-drive/brake assembly W10820043 rather than the new clutch. That assembly contains the spin tube/brake mechanism that the clutch is trying to drive.
Even better test — isolate the motor
Since you’ve already had the pump and motor area apart, this is the test I’d do next.
Unplug the washer.
Remove the cabinet.
Remove the drain pump from the motor shaft and leave it disconnected.
Remove the motor from the gearcase.
Inspect the motor coupling very closely while it’s apart. Look for cracked plastic hubs, rounded center holes, or a rubber isolator that’s distorted.
Turn the motor shaft by hand. It should rotate smoothly.
Turn the gearcase input shaft by hand.
This helps divide the machine into sections.
If the motor turns freely but the gearcase/input drive is extremely difficult or binds, we’re getting much closer to the problem.
Check the gearcase
I’m particularly suspicious of the gearcase or basket-drive/brake assembly.
Look closely around the top of the gearcase where the shaft enters it.
A light coating of grease around the brake mechanism isn’t automatically a problem. In fact, the parts information for this machine specifically identifies lubricant used on the brake shoe assembly roller and pin.
What I don’t want to see is gear oil leaking out of the transmission and migrating down into the clutch/brake area. If the new clutch lining has already become oily, that’s important.
One test I really like here
Since the pump can create a surprisingly heavy load on these direct-drive machines, temporarily leave the pump removed from the motor shaft and run the washer in spin for just a few seconds.
Do not put water in the washer for this test.
If the motor suddenly runs normally and the buzzing/clicking disappears → pump is binding under operating speed, even though its impeller turns by hand.
If it still buzzes/clicks and struggles → shut it off. We’re looking at the motor, coupling, gearcase, or basket drive/brake.
My order of suspicion
Based on everything you’ve already done, I’d rank it:
1. Basket drive/brake binding 2. Gearcase binding/failing internally 3. Motor coupling slipping under load despite looking intact 4. Drive motor overheating/failing under load 5. Pump binding only at operating speed
The fact that the clothes are soaking wet but the machine drains correctly is important. The drain system is doing its job; the failure is occurring when the machine tries to transfer motor torque into basket rotation.
And because you’re getting a burning smell, I wouldn’t continue letting it sit there buzzing. Something is stalled or slipping and generating heat.
If you do the hand-spin test first, tell me whether the basket turns fairly easily, is very stiff, or won’t turn at all. That result will narrow this down considerably.
Hi! Thank you for responding. My dryer timer broke when I got back from the laundromat so I’m just now getting back to trying to fix the washer. I did the second test since the washer is still apart. Prior to taking it apart again yesterday, I had checked the basket and it had turned freely, but I’ll check it again when I reassemble it. I checked yesterday with someone else if it was okay to leave the washer on its back overnight and they said yes, but I’m thinking that wasn’t the right thing to do since a small amount of oil is now pooling under it. Is a small amount okay or do I need to get this back together and upright ASAP? https://youtube.com/shorts/IkpaNiv-NX0?si=AKxmTElHh6LkaQJh
Update: I put it back upright because I realized quite a bit of oil was leaking.
Okay, thank you. Do you think the coupling is fine (from the video)? It looks old to me, but pieces are not coming off. Could it still be the cause?
Since I have it upright I’m checking the basket. It’s not turning at all now, but I also still have the agitator and motor disassembled. Do I need to reassemble everything before I try turning it?
Is that the same as the washer brake shoe? When I replaced the clutch I inspected it and again yesterday. I didn’t see much wear and was surprised they looked fairly new (they’re not new).
Grab that white piece and turn the brake assembly counter clockwise, The brake should disengage and the tub turn freely till it catches back up to the release lever causing the brake to grab again. Let me know what it does
I think you may have hit upon your problem. That swelling isn’t supposed to be like that it’s a pretty good indicator that The internal spin tube is rusted and swollen. Which is born out by the amount of corrosion you see on the drive block. You need to teat that washer completely apart and access the condition of the spin tube and everything below the drive block
Sweet, okay I’ll get the spanner wrench so I can take the spanner nut off. I saw on the parts diagram that the manufacturer no longer makes the spanner nut so I’ll be careful. Would it be okay spray a little PB Blaster to help loosen it?
Hi! I’ve been trying to get the spanner nut off for a few days now to no avail. I have a spanner wrench for my washer (TB123B) and have been using that with a mini sledge hammer (carefully-ish so I don’t damage the tub). I’ve applied PB Blaster twice a day for three (four?) days. I tried the boiling water trick I saw online. I double-checked that I’m going the right way (counterclockwise) for my model number. It super struck. I’m not too keen on trying to split it because I don’t want to accidentally damage the agitator drive shaft. Is there anything else you know of that I could try?
You can try tapping the spanner nut with a hammer all around while it has penetrating fluid on it. Sometimes this helps get the penetrating fluid into the threads. Only other thing I can think of is using a regular hammer rather than a mallet, the sharper blows may free the nut
Okay, I’ll try again. I tapped all around a few times hoping to break up some of that corrosion. I’ll switch back to a hammer to see if the sharper blows does it this time. It’s definitely counterclockwise, right?
