Maytag top loader MVW7230HW1 not filling, not spinning- time for a new board?

Washer Repair
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1

Brand: Maytag
Model Number: MVW7230HW1
Main Symptom: Won’t spin, won’t fill
What happens & when: When I start a wash cycle, no water fills, basket/tub does not spin, and then cycle jumps to complete.

Error Code (if any): F6E3, F7E7, F7E4, F7E3
Parts or tests already tried:

  1. I tried replacing the actuator
    1. Similar situation: would not fill, would not spin
    2. However, new actuator did allow the cycle to run the duration rather than jump to complete
  2. I checked the clutch assembly
    1. no signs of wear, plastic teeth look good
  3. Checked the stator for continuity, and had resistance on its pins at the harness
  4. Checked the wires from the board to the stator, and those tested fine
  5. the water/fill/pressure tube has no blockage in it, it’s clear
  6. I can manually spin the basket/drum with no issues
    1. nothing is impeding it from spinning
  7. The rotor spins smoothly, clogging to magnets of course.
  8. the magnets on the stator are fine as well.
  9. When I run the diagnostic mode:
    1. water fills
    2. drains
    3. basket does not move at all
2

The first thing I’d try is to run a Clean Washer cycle. If that seems like it is going to run then you can stop the cycle, add a couple of cups of white vinegar to the tub, and then let it continue the clean washer cycle or start a new one if it cleared out of that cycle.

If it will run the clean washer cycle but not the other cyclse that means it thinks there is an issue with the pressure system. If the pressure system is clear then the issue is with the main board W11614514, letting the Clean Washer cycle run through with the white vinegar should clear any detergent residue out of the system.

If it will not run the Clean Washer cycle it could be the rotor and stator, the lower wiring harness, the clutch, the main control board, or the gearcase. This issue was not uncommon with these and there isn’t a way to test further other than replacing parts.

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w11614514-ap7195239.html

3

Here’s all the testing and work i’ve done:

I ran the ACU test, and it completed and there were faults after running that.

Next, I tried running the ‘activated motor slow agitate’, and it would not complete. Even when letting it set for a couple hours. I ended up halting the test.

I could hear click of clutch under the basket, and could hear pulsing every so many seconds, but zero spinning or movement of the basket.

Fault codes from trying to run just that test were:

F7E3

F6E3

F7E7

Then I tried running the ‘Spin low speed’ test.

Again, no spinning, but could hear a faint pulsing noise, every several seconds near the clutch area. Also it took forever and never completed. I had to halt the test.

fault code:

F7E4

Lastly, I ran the ‘Activated Toggle Shifter’ test.

I could hear shifting/noise below around clutch area. It also was running and never completed. Ended up canceling the test also.

Fault codes:

F7E3

F6E3

F7E7

And then I did the following:

I tested the pins on the ACU board itself, using the combinations specified in the manual and all those read OL.

The pins on the harness leading from the board to the motor [red to black, black to red, and brown to red, all read 8-9ohms]

The manual shows there is a green wire on pin 4 at the J3 location, but that seems off as there’s a white wire instead.

[The white wire on that same harness, which leads from the board to the actuator does not read anything when paired with other wires. It leads to actuator and that does not read any continuity]